The ‘Florence cosy’ will add a large dose of fun to your teapot with a fluffy oversized pompom and woven ribbons.
and the ‘Kathy cosy’ offers understated off the shoulder glamour in traditional granny stitch style.
Each patterns is free and comes with a photo tutorial. They are easy to hook and make great weekend projects; which makes them the perfect gift for tea lovers.
Which one is your favourite?
I hope you will have fun hooking these great tea cosies.
I am so thrilled to be able to introduce the Sunshine Jelly Baby blanket to you.
This delightful crochet blanket is vibrant and fun to hook and the pattern is available, complete with a photo tutorial just below. Made from Drops Muskat cotton, it measures 74cms x 74cms or 29″ x 29″…the perfect pram blanket size, of course you can make the blanket bigger by adding more squares if you wish. You can also check out my latest free baby blanket pattern…The Angelece Baby Blanket by clicking this link. This delicious blanket is made using the Robins Nest square which I designed a few years ago and if you are a regular here you will know that I have recently updated this pattern. When I firstdesigned this square I always intended to make a baby blanket…I guess somethings just take a while to come to pass.
As always I’m using English crochet terminology. Ch – chain Slst – slip stitch dc – double crochet tr – treble crochet
ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated. I’m using drops muskat cotton.
and I’m using the colours and quantities listed below red – 100g old pink – 80g white – 50g vanilla yellow – 65g dark orange -20g
sky blue – 35g
apple green – 50g
and a 4mm crochet hook and a 3.5mm crochet hook
Each lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.
You will need to make 16 squares to make this blanket arranged
4 x 4…
of course you can make more squares if you wish to make a larger version.
So here goes…
with a 4mmhook ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)
Row 1: ch3,
11tr into ring,
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12tr in total).
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 3tr).
Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3,
3tr in same sp, ch1
*4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1*,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3, 4tr in same sp, ch1
*5tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3, 5tr in same sp, ch1, *6tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3, 5tr in same space,
ch3,
6tr in same space (corner made),
*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,
6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space* (2nd corner made) repeat * * x2 times
6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.
Row 8: ch3,
1tr in next 5sts,
*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2, 6tr in same space (corner made),
*1tr in next 5sts,
dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch
1tr in next 6sts, 6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*
repeat * * x2times
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish. Weave in ends.
Blocking:
A word on blocking: Before blocking…
Your square will be wibbly. After blocking…
Your square will lie flat and will look much better. Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin the square to the required measurements to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry.
Joining:
I have used a simple and easy slip stitch to join these squares. I have chosen this join for two reasons. The first reason is that it is secure and does not add anything to the squares, allowing them to showcase themselves.
The second reason is it uses the least amount of yarn and also creates less ends to weave in.
So to join the squares start by placing 2 squares with the right side to the right side…ie/ the wrong side of each square will be facing outwards.
Note that this join requires you to place slip stitches in the top of the stitches along the edge of the square and you should go under both loops of each stitch.
Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in both stitches of each square, these stitches should be the corresponding stitches for each square. Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in the top square only. This is because the squares are only joined to each other at each corner and in the middle of each scallop.
Join yarn in 2nd ch of any corner space and with a 3.5mm hook slst,
in both squares slst in the next 6sts,
in top square only slst in next 6 sts (tr), slst in next st (dc), slst in next st (1st tr of scallop),
*in both squares slst in next 3 sts (2nd, 3rd &4th st of scallop),
in top square only slst in next 3sts (tr,dc,tr)*
repeat * – *
in top square only slst in next 5sts,
in both squares slst in next 6 sts, miss chst, slst into 2nd ch of corner space.
Repeat this process for each side of the square which requires joining. You will not need to cut your yarn at the end of each side joined as you can continue round by adding another square. I started joining in the middle of the blanket. You will have to join in a new corner space for some of the joins, but the process remains the same.
I would love to see your makes and you can share on social media by using the following hashtags
#ayarnyrobin #yarnyrobin @yarnyrobin
This pattern to include the photos are the property of Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin. You can’t modify, resell or share this pattern. You can sell finished items made from it, but please mention that the item is made using AYARNYROBIN pattern.
I have updated this lovely pattern and have re shot the tutorial photos, so they are clearer. I have also updated this pattern on ravelry too so you can save for later if you want to.
Hope you enjoy!
As always I’m using English crochet terminology. Ch – chain Slst – slip stitch dc – double crochet tr – treble crochet
ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated. I’m using drops muskat cotton
and I’m using the colours listed below, you will see you only need a very small quantity of yarn. red – 16g old pink – 5g white – 3g vanilla yellow – 4g dark orange -1g
sky blue – 2g apple green – 3g and a 4mm crochet hook.
This lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.
So here goes… ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)
Row 1: ch3,
11tr into ring,
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch (12tr in total).
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch (12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 3tr). Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3, 3tr in same sp, ch1
*4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1*,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3, 4tr in same sp, ch1
*5tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3, 5tr in same sp, ch1, *6tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3, 5tr in same space,
ch3,
6tr in same space (corner made),
*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,
6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space* (2nd corner made) repeat * * x2 times
6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.
Row 8: ch3,
1tr in next 5sts,
*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2, 6tr in same space (corner made),
*1tr in next 5sts,
dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch
1tr in next 6sts, 6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*
repeat * * x2times
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish. Weave in ends.
A word on blocking: Before blocking…
Your square will be wibbly. After blocking…
Your square will lie flat and will look much better. Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin square to the required measurements, to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry. A very versatile yarny square.
This is the fifth tea cosy in the Grandma collection, and is quite simply delightful. The use of traditional granny stitches means that this pattern can be hooked within an evening. Ideal for that last minute handmade present. This cosy is sweetly uncomplicated and will cloak any tea pot with elegance.
Dedicated to the inspiration that is ‘Nanna Kathy’
The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 6 cup teapot.
You will also need a darning needle, pin or stitch marker and a pair of scissors.
Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets below.
Ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet (single crochet)
htr– half treble crochet (half double crochet)
tr – treble crochet (double crochet)
dtr – double treble crochet (treble crochet)
You will also need:
a 5mm crochet hook for main body of teapot and a
4mm hook to complete picot edging trim.
Ok, here we go…
Using the gold yarn and 5mm hook, Ch 20
To adjust cosy size, the starting chain should be equivalent to the height from the base of teapot to the top of the body of the teapot or to put it another way, to the start of lid. If adjusting the starting chain it must be a multiple of 3+2.
*********************
Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each st along, ch3, turn (ch3 counts as tr) (19dc in total).
Row 2: 2tr in same space as ch3, *miss 2 sts, 3tr in next st (granny cluster)*
repeat * – * til end of row, ch3 (counts as tr) turn.
(x7 granny clusters / x6 spaces).
Row 3: miss 1st granny cluster, 3tr in space before next granny cluster, *miss granny cluster, 3tr in space before next granny cluster* Repeat * – * to last space, miss 2 sts, 1tr in last st of row, Ch3 (counts as tr), turn.
(20sts = x6 granny clusters / 7 spaces / 1tr on each end of row).
Rows 4: 2tr in same space as ch 3, *miss granny cluster, 3tr in space before next granny cluster* Repeat * – * to end. Ch3 (counts as tr), turn. ( 21sts = x7 granny clusters / x6 spaces).
Row 5: – 17: Repeat rows 3 and 4, but omit turning ch on row 17.
Row 18: turn, ch1 (does not count as st)dc in same space, dc in each st across, ch3 (counts as tr), turn.
(20sts).
Now to make the spout hole!
Row 19: 2tr in same space as ch 3, miss 2sts, 3tr in next st, ch 10, miss next x5 granny clusters / x4 spaces, 3tr in last st.
(20sts).
Row 20: ch1 (does not count as dc), dc into same space, dc in next 2sts, dc in next 10 chain sts, dc in next 6sts, ch3 (counts as tr), turn. (19dc).
Row 21: Repeat Row 2.
Row 22 – 32: Repeat rows 3 and 4 but omit turning ch on row 32.
If adjusting cosy size make sure to finish this section on a row that is the same as row 3 in the pattern ie/ starts and finishes with 1tr.
*********************
Row 33: ch1 (does not count as dc), dc in same space, dc in each st along and fasten off and weave in ends
(20dc).
nb/ top and bottom – x1 granny cluster underneath spout
Noting top and bottom correctly, attach gold yarn to top right side.
Now to complete the petals.
Row 34:ch1 (does not count as dc), dc in same space, dc in each st across – ( the term sts here is used loosely as they are actually the side posts of the trebles and double crochet sts of the previous rounds. It may look a bit ambiguous, but we are aiming to get 36dc across this top edge), turn.
try to space these sts as evenly as you can… its just a case of getting them in!
Row 35: ch1, *miss 2 sts, in next st place dc, htr, tr, 2dtr, in next st place 2dtr, tr, htr, dc*
Repeat * – * to end of row
slst to beginning ch1 to join cosy in a circle.
Side Seam: Place cosy on teapot and mark with a pin across top of handle, slst from top of cosy down to this point (approx. 1.5cms).
Return cosy to the teapot and repeat process, this time marking below the handle. Remove cosy leaving marker in place, continue to slst along one edge (not both) until you reach marker for the bottom of the handle. Now slst both edges together to bottom of cosy, fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Picot trim: Finally, attach apricot yarn in any beginning dc of petal (ie. dc to the right hand side of petal).
With a 4mm hook, ch1 (counts as dc), dc in next 3sts, dc in next st, ch3, slst into 1st ch (picot made),
dc into same space as previous dc, dc in next 4sts…1st petal edged.
For next petal and for all petals around, dc in next 4sts, dc in next st, ch3, slst into 1st ch, dc in same space as previous dc, dc in next 4sts.
NB/ do not crochet in this space by mistake
Do not crochet in this space by mistake else your picot will not be central!
To finish slst to beginning ch of trim, fasten off and weave in ends.
Now I think it’s time for a brew…don’t you?
xxxxx
I REALLY HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED MAKING THIS PATTERN AS MUCH AS I HAVE ENJOYED CREATING IT FOR YOU. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ABOUT SOMETHING OR NOTICE ANY ERRORS PLEASE SHOUT UP. EQUALLY PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SHARE YOUR Grandma Kathy Tea cosy CREATIONS IN THE COMMENTS BELOW or with the #THEGRANDMACOLLECTION #AYARNYROBIN ON SOCIAL MEDIA…I WOULD LOVE TO SEE THEM!
With Valentines day just around the corner I thought I would post the pattern for ‘a yarny little heart’ that I published a little while back.
This is a super quick make and would make a cute Valentine bunting or embellishment. The pattern is free and just here and there is a photo tutorial too.
In my haste to release the fourth gorgeous tea cosy of the Grandma Collection…The Grandma Florence tea cosy; I realised that I hadn’t posted the formal introduction. So here it is…
Dedicated to my lovely Momma…Florence.
My Mom: the woman who raised me and who has quietly influenced me throughout my life.
I followed in her duty shoes and trained as a nurse, inspired by memories of her putting on her nurses hat and cape…of course that style of uniform has long since gone…but I wanted to help people just like her.
My Mom has been such a creative influence in my life too, for as long as I can remember she has made stuff. Clothes, flower arrangements, knitting, patchwork quilts…no wonder I have the desire to create and craft.
My Momma has also taught me how to be a Momma to my boys…and if I do half as good as her then I’ll do alright by them! But most of all she is always there and she is kind and that is just what I want to be.
So this is the Grandma Florence tea cosy, a pretty cosy woven with bright ribbons to represent the encouragement, love and inspiration that my Momma has woven throughout my life… Thanks Mom!
xxxxx
So that is the Grandma Florence tea cosy in all of her glory, here is the pattern linky thing which is free and has a photo tutorial also.
This is the fourth tea cosy in the Grandma collection, and is sure to charm. The crochet mesh design means this pattern makes for a very quick hook up. Ideal for beginners using just a half treble crochet stitch, this cosy is abidingly delightful and will trim any tea pot with joy.
Dedicated to the inspiration that is ‘Nanna Florence’ otherwise known as my Mom!
The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 6 cup teapot.
I used less than 50g of Stylecraftspecial dk yarn in cream. Please note that I have used a different colour yarn in the beginning of the photo tutorial below.
You will also need a darning needle, a selection of 5mm wide ribbon, a 50cm length of fluff, a button, a pair of scissors and x4 stitch markers (or small safety pins or scraps of different colour yarn). The use of a hot glue gun is optional, ribbons can either be glued into position or stitched.
Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.
Ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet (single crochet)
htr– half treble crochet (half double crochet)
You will also need:
a 4mm crochet hook
Ok, here we go…
Using the cream yarn Ch 4
Join with a slst to form a ring.
Row 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6hdc into ring,
finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (6hdc).
Row 2: Ch1, (does not count as a st) 2hdc in same space, 2hdc in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (12hdc).
Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next st* . Repeat * – * to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (18hdc).
Rows 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 2 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (24hdc).
Row 5: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 3 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (30hdc).
Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdcin next st, 1hdc in next 4 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).
Row 7: ch1 ( does not count as a st), 1hdc in same space and in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).
Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space andin each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).
Row 9 and 10: Repeat row 7, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).
You should have something that is starting to look a bit like a flying saucer! This is a good point to check your measurements with your intended teapot. Place your hooked disc on top of your teapot. You want the edges of the circle to be approx. 1cm from the handle of the teapot.
To mark out handle and spout holes, simply take x4 st markers (or cut short pieces of yarn in a different colour as I did) and place/ tie first marker in the st behind where you joined last row.
Counting backwards (or to the right)miss x3 sts and place/tie second marker in next st. This marks out your handle.
From this second marker count backwards (or to the right) 30sts and place 3rd marker in the next st (31st st). Return to the first marker and count forwards 30 sts (or to the left) and place 4th marker in the next st.
You have now marked out the handle and spout positions for your cosy. Marker #1 and #2 indicate the handle space and markers #3 and #4 indicate the spout space.
The next stage of the cosy is to construct the sides. So, for the purposes of the pattern these will be referred to as side A (between marker #1 and #4) and side B between marker #2 and #3).
Side A row 1: In Cream yarn Ch 4 (counts as 1htr and 2ch), miss 2sts *htr in next st, ch2, miss 2sts*
repeat * -* until you reach marker/ tie #4.
NB/ last htr is completed in st marked by marker / tie #4
(x11htr, x10 ch2spaces)
Side A row 2: ch4 (counts as htr and 2 ch) turn work.
Miss 2 sts, *htr in next st, ch2, miss 2 sts*
repeat * – * to end of row, placing last htr in top of ch2.
(x11htr, x10 ch2 spaces).
Side A row 3: We are going to increase the mesh at each end of the row.
Ch 4 ( counts as htr and 2ch, turn work, htr into same st ( increase made), ch2, miss 2sts, *htr in next st, ch2, miss 2 sts*
repeat from * – * til end of row placing htr in ch2 of previous row, ch2, htr in same space (increase made).
(x13htr, x12 ch2 spaces).
Side A row 4: ch 4 (counts as htr and 2ch), turn work, miss 2 sts, *htr in next st, ch2, miss 2sts*
repeat * – * til end of row. (x13htr, x12 ch2 spaces).
Side A row 5 – 15: repeat side A row 4. Fasten off. Side A completed.
Side B: Join cream yarn in st to the left of st marker #2
repeat Side A instructions between markers 2 and 3. Fasten off and sew in all loose ends.
Remove stitch markers.
Place on your teapot to check the fit.
Now for the fun part! Weave the ribbons in and out of the mesh.
weave the ribbons in and out of the mesh…
alternate each row ie, start weaving from under the post on one row and over the post on the next row. NB/ on row 3 you will not need to alternate in order to keep the pattern of covered and exposed posts.
This gives me another idea!!!
Repeat weaving ribbons for both Side A and Side B. Once completed you need to secure the ribbons. I used a hot glue gun to do this but you could just as easily machine sew.
Turn work so that the wrong side is facing upwards and begin by securing the ribbons that end by going behind the post. In the picture below this would be the green ribbon, followed by the blue then the red ribbon. Secure both sides being careful not to pull the ends of the ribbon to tight, you need to allow a little give in the ribbon.
Continue to secure the ribbons in this way. You should now only have ribbons that go over the post left to secure. To do this split the side of the post stitch with your nail and thread through the ribbon. In the photo below the top picture shows the blue ribbon already threaded and the bottom picture shows the red ribbon yet to be threaded with the place for it to be threaded through indicated by the safety pin.
NB/ this can be a bit tricky and may require a wee bit of patience!
Once threaded, secure as before.
Edging: join cream yarn to the bottom corner (any side).
Ch2 (does not count as a st), htr into same space (to the right side of ribbon), ch1.
NB/The next st is to be placed in between ribbon).
*ch1,htr in between ribbon*
repeat *- * until last ribbon at the top. Don’t worry too much about the ribbon seeming loose at the sides, just keep placing those htr’s between the ribbons! The last htr being placed to the left side of the last ribbon.
Dc in the sts across the lid of the cosy.
Now place htr to right of top ribbon on opposite side,*ch1, htr in between ribbon*.
Repeat * – * to end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat the whole of the edging process on the other side of the cosy, but do not fasten off as this is where the tab is created..
Tab: To complete the tab ch2 (does not count as st) turn work,
Tab Row 1: *htr in ch sp, htr in next st* repeat * – * x3 more times (8htr in total)
Tab Row 2: ch2 (does not count as a st) turn work, htr in each st along (8htr)
Tab Row 3: repeat Tab Row 2.
Tab Row 4: Turn work, slst in next 2 sts, ch8, miss 4 sts, slst in next 2sts, fasten off and weave in ends.
Attach button centrally on opposite side to tab.
Now to sew handle opening. To do this sew the two edges on opposite side of cosy to tab and button. Sew from bottom up to the 4th or 5th ribbon or until the bottom of your handle.
Finally to neaten the edges around the spout, join cream yarn to st just above the tab.
Ch2, htr in each st around until st just above button, fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat the process to neaten the edges around the handle, this time joining the cream yarn to any st in the opening for the handle, ch2, htr in each st around, joining with a slst in top of ch2 to finish. Fasten off.
Finally to add the pompom.
Now you could just make a pompom, but I just tied the first part of a bow over and over until I had a fluffy ball.
I threaded some yarn through it and secured it to the top of the tea cosy where it looked rather quite proud.
Et voila! A beautiful tea cosy to warm your brew!
xxxxx
I REALLY HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED MAKING THIS PATTERN AS MUCH AS I HAVE ENJOYED CREATING IT FOR YOU. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ABOUT SOMETHING OR NOTICE ANY ERRORS PLEASE SHOUT UP. EQUALLY PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SHARE YOUR Grandma Florence Tea cosy CREATIONS IN THE COMMENTS BELOW or on social media using the hashtags #ayarnyrobin or @yarnyrobin…I WOULD LOVE TO SEE THEM!
This is the third tea cosy in theGrandma collection,designed with simplicity and sweetness. The top down design means this pattern makes for a quick hook up. Ideal for beginners and sure to guarantee a perfectly sweet cosy for your teapot.Dedicated to the inspiration that was‘Nanna Dot’
The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 4 cup teapot.
I used less than 50g of Stylecraft special dk yarn in colourways cream and raspberry which I used as my base colours. Please note that I have used a different colour yarn in the photo tutorial below.
I also used scraps of stylecraft special dk yarn in: lipstick, saffron, meadow, fondant, gold, shrimp, lime, khaki and grape.
You will also need a darning needle, a selection of beads with a centre hole wide enough for the dk yarn to be threaded through, a pair of scissors and x4 stitch markers (or small safety pins or scraps of different colour yarn). The use of a hot glue gun is optional, flowers can either be glued into position or stitched.
Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.
Ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
hdc– half double crochet (half single crochet)
You will also need:
a 4mm crochet hook
Ok, here we go…
Using the raspberry yarn Ch 4
Join with a slst to form a ring.
Row 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6hdc into ring,
finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (6hdc).
Row 2: Ch1, (does not count as a st) 2hdc in same space, 2hdc in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (12hdc).
Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next st* . Repeat * – * to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (18hdc).
Rows 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 2 sts*. Repeat *-* to end,finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (24hdc).
Row 5: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 3 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (30hdc).
Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdcin next st, 1hdc in next 4 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).
Row 7: ch1 ( does not count as a st), 1hdc in same space and in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).
Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space andin each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).
Row 9 and 10: Repeat row 7, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).
You should have something that is starting to look a bit like a flying saucer! This is a good point to check your measurements with your intended teapot. Place your hooked disc on top of your teapot. You want the edges of the circle to be approx. 1cm from the handle of the teapot.
To mark out handle and spout holes, simply take x4 st markers (or cut short pieces of yarn in a different colour as I did) and place/ tie first marker in the st behind where you joined last row.
Counting backwards (or to the right)miss x3 sts and place/tie second marker in next st. This marks out your handle.
From this second marker count backwards (or to the right) 30sts and place 3rd marker in the next st (31st st). Return to the first marker and count forwards 30 sts (or to the left) and place 4th marker in the next st.
You have now marked out the handle and spout positions for your cosy. Marker 1 and 2 indicate the handle space and markers 3 and 4 indicate the spout space.
The next stage of the cosy is to construct the sides. So, for the purposes of the pattern these will be referred to as side A (between marker 1 and 4) and side B between marker 2 and 3).
Side A row 1: In Cream yarn Ch 1(does not count as a st)* 1hdc in same st and in each st along to marker/tie 4, ch1, turn*
Side A row 2: repeat Side A row 1 returning to marker/tie 1.
Repeat (side A row 1 and side A row 2), to fit the height of your teapot. I completed 15 rows in total. Fasten off.
To complete side B, join cream yarn in stitch to the left of stitch marker number 2
repeat Side A instructions between markers 2 and 3. Fasten off and sew in all loose ends.
Remove stitch markers.
Place on your teapot to check the fit.
Next, using a darning needle sew sides A and B together from the bottom of the cosy to below the spout (approx. 2 rows) and on the handle side from the bottom of the cosy to below the handle.
Now for the creative part… making ‘dotty little crochet flowers’. I made x4 flowers in each of the following colours:
lipstick, fondant, grape, gold, raspberry, saffron and shrimp
A dotty little flower
To make a ‘dotty little flower’ ch4, slst to 1st chain to make a ring. Ch 2 (counts as a hdc) x9 hdc into ring, slst into top of starting ch and fasten off to finish.
To create flower centres you can cross stitch the centre, add beads and create a french knot centre.
I used a cheat method to create the french knot centre by pulling a piece of yarn from the back of the flower to the front and then tying a knot x10 in the yarn in exactly the same place to make a large knot.
To finish thread the other tail of the yarn from the front to the back, so both tails are now at the back of the flower, tie to secure and trim tails short.
Secure your dotty little flowers to both sides of the cosy. You can sew them into place or secure them with hot glue! Then using green yarns sew simple stems and leaves using a back stitch to finish. I used stylecraft special DK yarn in meadow, khaki andlime.
And there you have it…a sweet dotty flower tea cosy to keep your brew warm.
xxxxx
I REALLY HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED MAKING THIS PATTERN AS MUCH AS I HAVE ENJOYED CREATING IT FOR YOU. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ABOUT SOMETHING OR NOTICE ANY ERRORS PLEASE SHOUT UP. EQUALLY PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SHARE YOUR DOTTY FLOWER CREATIONS IN THE COMMENTS BELOW oron social media using the hashtags #ayarnyrobin or @yarnyrobin…I WOULD LOVE TO SEE THEM!
Introducing the ‘Grandma Dot’ tea cosy…the third in the Grandma Collection
Dedicated to my husband’s Nanna Dot who was a truly formidable woman.
Nanna Dot was a tiny woman in stature but a mighty woman non the less.
Strong, brave and wise with the most beautiful smile. No matter what was going on or how much hell was breaking loose round about; Nanna Dot would make a cuppa tea or something a wee bit stronger and in a way that I still do not really understand, she would put things into perspective with a gentle reassurance.
I wish I had known Nanna Dot for longer. I especially loved her love of family and Christmas. Family were so important to her. When my first son was born, we counted from Nanna Dot and Grandad Ernie that our son was number 50….a BIG family indeed!
So this cosy is covered in ‘dotty little flowers’
A meadow of ‘dotty little flowers’ to represent the growth and legacy of her family, which at last count is upwards of 60!
So that is the Grandma Dot tea cosy in all of its glory, here is the pattern linky thing which is free and has a photo tutorial also.
As promised Ginny, here is my pattern for these cute Corfu barefoot sandals.
You will need approx. 7m of yarn for each sandal, I used Paintbox dk cotton in cream and a 4mm hook.
You will also need x5 beads for each sandal, I used beads from a cheap bracelet. Just make sure the threading hole in the bead is large enough for your yarn.
Other useful items you will need are a pair of scissors and a darning needle to weave in the ends.
This pattern uses English terminology and the following abbreviations:
Ch – chain stitch
st- stitch
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
htr- half treble
tr – treble crochet
dtr – double treble crochet
By adjusting the number of chains in the ties, you can make them longer or shorter to suit. Additionally adjusting the number of chains in the toe loop for comfort may be required.
To skip photo tutorial, head to the end of the post for written pattern without photo’s.
So, assuming you have gathered your supplies cut at least 7m of yarn from the ball, knot one end and thread X5 beads on. The X2 beads nearest the knot will be located at the end of the ties of the sandal, the following X2 beads will be located, just before the tie chain starts, and the last bead you thread will be the bead nearest the toes (I used a different bead which was larger and sparkly for this)…the darker bead in the photo.
move the beads to the end of the yarn for later…
Now, starting at the other end of the yarn to the beads, leave a long length, approx. 50cms. You will use this at the end to make the toe loop. Make a loop
Chain 6 and bring first bead down
Join with a slip stitch into 1st chain – catching / incorporating the bead in the centre
Ch4 (counts as a dtr) As you make the next stitches around the bead be careful not to weave in the long tail that you are saving for your toe loop.
2dtr into loop (this can be a bit fiddly getting the hook in next to the bead)
Continue working in the loop around the bead as follows
2tr, 2htr, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 2dtr
and join with slst in top of beginning ch4 (feather made).
Now ch6,
in 2nd ch from hook *dc, 2tr,dc* (1st cluster)
miss a st and repeat *—* (2nd cluster), slst into top of feather.
Turn work so feather is on the your right hand side
The next set of stitches will be made in the base of the 1st cluster st, (see photo). But first, bring the second bead down and rest it on top of cluster, now slst in base of cluster st to secure.
*Dc,2tr,dc* in same space.
Bring down third bead and repeat *—* in second cluster.
To finish cluster slst in 1st ch at the start of 1st cluster (see photo above).
*Ch55, bring down 4th bead, slst into 4th ch from hook and pull tight to secure bead.
Dc in each ch back to cluster, slst into top of cluster* (tie made) repeat *—* to make second tie. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Returning to length of yarn left at start, weave end to bottom of feather
insert hook into top st of central dtr and pull up a loop
Ch12 and slst into top of central dtr which you started ch from. Tie off and weave in ends.
Now to make another!
I really hope you have enjoyed making these barefoot sandals, I would love to see some pictures if you have.
xxxxx
Written pattern without photo’s.
Corfu Barefoot sandal by ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com
cut at least 7m of yarn from the ball, knot one end and thread X5 beads on. The X2 beads nearest the knot will be located at the end of the ties of the sandal, the following X2 beads will be located, just before the tie chain starts, and the last bead you thread will be the bead nearest the toes
Now, starting at the other end of the yarn to the beads, leave a long length, approx. 50cms. You will use this at the end to make the toe loop.
Make a loop, Ch6 and bring first bead down, join with a slip stitch into 1st chain – catching / incorporating the bead in the centre.
Ch4 (counts as a dtr) As you make the next stitches around the bead be careful not to weave in the long tail that you are saving for your toe loop. 2dtr into loop (this can be a bit fiddly getting the hook in next to the bead).
Continue working in the loop around the bead as follows 2tr, 2htr, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 2dtr and join with slst in top of beginning ch4 (feather made).
Ch6, in 2ch from hook *dc, 2tr,dc* (1st cluster) miss a st and repeat *—* (2nd cluster), slst into top of feather.
Turn work so feather is on the your right hand side.
The next set of stitches will be made in the base of the 1st cluster st. But first, bring the second bead down and rest it on top of cluster, now slst in base of cluster st to secure. *Dc,2tr,dc* in same space.
Bring down third bead and repeat *—* in second cluster.
To finish cluster slst in 1st ch at the start of 1st cluster. *Ch55, bring down 4th bead, slst into 4th ch from hook and pull tight to secure bead.
Dc in each ch back to cluster, slst into top of cluster* (tie made), repeat *—* to make second tie. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Returning to length of yarn left at start, weave end to bottom of feather, insert hook into top st of central dtr and pull up a loop, Ch12 and slst into top of central dtr which you started ch from. Tie off and weave in ends.
xxxxx 
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times,
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times,
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
This is the fifth tea cosy in the 
In my haste to release the fourth gorgeous tea cosy of the Grandma Collection…The Grandma Florence tea cosy; I realised that I hadn’t posted the formal introduction. So here it is…
Crochet blog 