This delightful granny square crochet blanket pattern is a classic, beginner-friendly crochet project that’s perfect for creating a beautiful handmade gift. Updated for March 2026, this easy crochet baby blanket pattern uses simple granny squares to create a timeless design that works with any colour palette. Whether you’re creating for a new baby, making a baby shower gift, or just using up your stash, this pattern is relaxing and fun to make and comes together into a soft, cosy blanket you’ll treasure.

You can also check out my latest free baby blanket pattern…The Angelece Baby Blanket by clicking this link.

If you prefer working from a clean, ad-free printable pattern, the PDF version is available in my Etsy shop.

⭐ Easy to print and follow anywhere
⭐ No ads – just the pattern
⭐ UK or US crochet terms included
⭐ Instant download

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Pattern Notes

As always I’m using English crochet terminology.
Ch – chain
Slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet

ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated.
I’m using drops muskat cotton.

ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated.
I’m using drops muskat cotton.

Materials

I’m using Drops Muskat in the colours  and quantities listed below per square,

red – 100g
old pink – 80g
white – 50g
vanilla yellow – 65g
dark orange -20g

sky blue – 35g apple green – 50g
and a 4mm crochet hook and a 3.5mm crochet hook 

Prefer to make this in an acryllic yarn then why not try Stylecraft Special DK
Yarn amount
For each square you will need
Less than 5g – Spice
Less than 5g – Cornish blue
Less than 5g – white
Less than 5g – Apple
Less than 5g – Citron
Less than 5g – Blush
Less than 10g – Lipstick
For a blanket made of 16 squares you will
need x 1 ball (100g) of each colour and x3
balls of lipstick (300g

Each lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.

You will need to make 16 squares to make this blanket arranged 4 x 4…

of course you can make more squares if you wish to make a larger version.

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Pattern

So here goes…
with a 4mm hook ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)

Row 1: ch3,

11tr into ring,

join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch (12tr in total).

Row 2: ch3,

1tr in same space, ch1

2tr in next st, ch1

*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).

Row 3: ch3,

*3tr in next ch space*,

repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,

If you prefer working from a clean, ad-free printable pattern, the PDF version is available in my Etsy shop.

join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 3tr).
Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3,
3tr in same sp, ch1

*4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1*,

repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3,
4tr in same sp, ch1

*5tr in next ch space, ch1*,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3,
5tr in same sp, ch1,
*6tr in next ch space, ch1*,
repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3,
5tr in same space,

ch3,

6tr in same space (corner made),

*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,

6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space*
(2nd corner made)
repeat * * x2 times

6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.

Row 8: ch3,

1tr in next 5sts,

*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2,
6tr in same space (corner made),

*1tr in next 5sts,

dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch

1tr in next 6sts,
6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*

repeat * * x2times

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish.
Weave in ends.

Blocking:

A word on blocking:
Before blocking…You’re square will be wibbly.

After blocking…Your square will lie flat and will look much better.

Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin the square to the required measurements to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry.

Joining:

I have used a simple and easy slip stitch to join these squares.  I have chosen this join for two reasons.  The first reason is that it is secure and does not add anything to the squares, allowing them to showcase themselves.

The second reason is it uses the least amount of yarn and also creates less ends to weave in. 

So to join the squares start by placing 2 squares with the right side to the right side…ie/ the wrong side of each square will be facing outwards. 

Note that this join requires you to place slip stitches in the top of the stitches along the edge of the square and you should go under both loops of each stitch. 

 Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in both stitches of each square, these stitches should be the corresponding stitches for each square. Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in the top square only.  This is because the squares are only joined to each other at each corner and in the middle of each scallop. 

Join yarn in 2nd ch of any corner space and with a 3.5mm hook slst,

in both squares slst in the next 6sts,

in top square only slst in next 6 sts (tr), slst in next st (dc), slst in next st (1st tr of scallop),

*in both squares slst in next 3 sts (2nd, 3rd &4th st of scallop),

in top square only slst in next 3sts (tr,dc,tr)*

repeat * – *

in top square only slst in next 5sts,

in both squares slst in next 6 sts, miss chst, slst into 2nd ch of corner space. 

Repeat this process for each side of the square which requires joining.  You will not need to cut your yarn at the end of each side joined as you can continue round by adding another square.  I started joining in the middle of the blanket.  You will have to join in a new corner space for some of the joins, but the process remains the same.

WHAT CROCHETERS ARE SAYING

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ “Lovely pattern”

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

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