Mostly enjoying this busy, beautiful life with lots of yarn and a hook! I'm hooked on God, my 3 boys, Mr R and if your reading this then you'll know I'm hooked on crochet too!!
I love to write my own patterns and share them here, I also love to blog and Instagram my creative journey; you can find me by clicking the links below.
So thanks for stopping by...feel free to have a good old poke around...and I hope you enjoy your time spent with me because you are very welcome here xx
With Her Majesty’s Platinum Jubilee just around the corner I thought I’d share my progress on my Jubilee decorations and share the pattern with you. After all what good is a garden party or afternoon tea without a bit of bunting?
To make the bunting flags please see my previous post just here They are simple to make and the lace trim gives a pretty, vintage vibe. What’s more if you tie your embellishments to the flags rather than sew them on, the bunting can be recycled and dressed up again for the next occasion / holiday season in your calendar…clever eh!
I wanted my Jubilee bunting to be traditional in colour , so of course it had to be red, white and blue, but I wanted it to look pretty and almost understated, so you won’t find any navy or lipstick red here! instead I chose a more muted red tone and coupled it with a mid blue. I also wanted to incorporate the Union Jack and found these gorgeous little buttons, which again are more subtle in tone.
This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology and the stitch abbreviations can be found below. I have included US terminology in brackets if you wish to convert.
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Tr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Large Jubilee Rose
In cherry
Leave a long tail, ch 50
Tr in 2nd ch from hook, tr in each ch along, dc in last ch
Ch3, turn
2tr in same space, 3tr in each st a long, dc in last st. Fasten off leaving a long tail
Small Jubilee Rose
In denim blue
Leave a long tail, ch 33
Tr in 2nd ch from hook, tr in each ch along, dc in last ch
Ch3, turn
2tr in same space, 3tr in each st a long, dc in last st. Fasten off leaving a long tail
To assemble
Spiral flower in an anti-clockwise direction with one long tail at the front of the rose and one long tail at the back of the rose. With a darning needle take the front tail through to the back of the rose to secure centre petal. Now make several passes of the needle at back of the rose making sure you catch all the layers of the rose. With other tail, thread darning needle and make several more passes at the back of the rose. Tie tails together in a knot to secure. Attach to bunting by passing both tails with a darning needle through to back of flag and tie neatly so tails tuck neatly behind flag and can be easily removed when you wish to re-dress your bunting. Add buttons to string in between flags with hot glue / glue gun.
If you like this pattern and would like me to continue to share my patterns please give me a clap and follow me on instagram
I would love to see your Jubilee Roses, so please tag me in your makes on social media and I will share your lovely makes.
Hey lovely people, I wanted to share this crochet pattern for this beautiful, understated bunting, which has a distinct vintage vibe. I’ve called it ‘dress me up bunting’ because the whole idea behind this bunting is that you can dress it up for different celebrations with add-on decorations and then re-dress it all over again…think crochet flowers, faux flowers, ribbons, buttons etc.
I didn’t want to have to make bunting over and over again to fit themes and colour schemes, so I thought I’d make some pretty bunting flags which look great on their own and then I can dress the flags accordingly and temporarily, making them just about as versatile as they can be.
I think this bunting looks so pretty and I have had fun trying it out around the nest. I have strung them for now on some hessian garden twine by simply pulling the twine through a few stitches at the back of each flag.
I really wanted to share the pattern with you, so keep reading if you are itching to make your own. The pattern is quick to make and would make a lovely gift for a crafty friend. The pattern is simple and ideal for beginners, using half treble crochet (UK) or half double crochet (US) and some decrease stitches.
I already have plans to dress this bunting for the Queens Platinum Jubilee celebrations which are just a few weeks away now…so watch this space as I am currently hooking some Jubilee roses.
You will need to gather some simple supplies if you want to hook up your own ‘dress me up bunting’.
I used Drops Safran cotton yarn in off white. I made 7 flags from 50g and by keeping short tails.
A 3.5mm hook, scissors and darning needle
I chose a simple white lace with a depth of 4cms. I used 22cms per flag, so just over a 1m 50cms for the 7 flags I made.
I also used a glue gun to attach the lace, but you could also sew this on if you prefer.
You will also need some ribbon or twine to string your flags with.
Don’t forget to tag me with your bunting makes using #dressmeupbunting @yarnyrobin I would love to share your lovely makes!
Stitches Used.
Ch: chain st
st: stitch
Htr: Yarn over before inserting hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, insert hook, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Htr-dec: Yarn over before inserting hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, insert hook, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull through so there are 4 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
The pattern is worked in rows and you will need to turn your work at the end of each row. Turning ch1 does not count as a st
Ch 31
R1: htr in 2nd ch from hook, htr in each ch along, ch1 turn (30htr)
R2 – 4: htr in each st along, ch1 turn (30htr)
R5: htr-dec, htr in next 26sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (28htr)
R6: htr-dec, htr in next 24sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (26htr)
R7: htr-dec, htr in next 22sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (24htr)
R8: htr-dec, htr in next 20sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (22htr)
R9: htr-dec, htr in next 18sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (20htr)
R10: htr-dec, htr in next 16sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (18htr)
R11: htr-dec, htr in next 14sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (16htr)
R12: htr-dec, htr in next 12sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (14htr)
R13: htr-dec, htr in next 10sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (12htr)
R14: htr-dec, htr in next 8sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (10htr)
R15: htr-dec, htr in next 6sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (8htr)
R16: htr-dec, htr in next 4sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (6htr)
R17: htr-dec, htr in next 2sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (4htr)
R18: htr-dec, htr-dec, ch1 turn (2htr)
R19: htr-dec, (1htr) fasten off and weave in ends.
Use glue gun to attach lace across the top of the flag, making sure to secure a small overlap of lace at the back of the flag to give a neat edge. Alternatively, you could sew the lace in place with a needle and thread.
Make as many flags as you desire and simply string with ribbon or twine by hooking it through a few stitches at the back of the flag, behind the lace.
To make the flags hang nicely I hooked the twine through at 3 points on each flag, on the left, the right and in the centre.
You can now dress your bunting up with whatever you choose. In order to dress this bunting up and down attach any accessories so that they can easily be removed, that way your bunting can be dressed and re-dressed to your hearts content.
Don’t forget to tag me with your bunting makes using #dressmeupbunting @yarnyrobin I would love to share your lovely makes!
Fancy hooking up your own Spring Bunny Lovey, well you can…because I’m going to share my pattern with you and just in time for Easter. You will find all the pattern details in this post or you can purchase an ad-free copy for less than a cuppa just here.
This cute Spring bunny is sure to become baby’s best friend. Using Oeko Tex standard 100 approved 100% cotton in a 4ply; this lovey is soft to snuggle and is perfectly safe to chew on.
The pattern is simple and quick to hook up and uses only 50g of cotton plus a tiny amount for the bow… just perfect for gifting a special little someone! I made this in an afternoon so it really is a quick make.
With her rosy cheeks and little criss cross nose, this little bunny has the sweetest face and floppy ears. The granny square blanket adds a vintage vibe coupled with it’s neutral tones.
A word on yarn choice
I have opted to use Drops Safran 100% cotton as it is not only affordable, but it has a great colour pallete too. It was also really important to me that I chose a cotton that was Oeko Tex standard 100 approved; which means the cotton has been certified to be free of harmful chemicals and is safe for human use, as well as being verified as both safe and non-irritating to human skin. As this bunny lovey was inspired by a very precious little human, I wanted to be sure there were no hidden nasties.
Pattern Protocols
This pattern including all photos are the property of Nicola Florence at ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com. Please do not modify, resell, publish in part or in full, or share this pattern or photo’s as your own. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, (subject to toy making regulations) I hope it becomes a hot item for you; but please credit, with a link, that the item is made using @yarnyrobin pattern / #springbunnylovey
You will need
3mm hook or hook size to meet gauge
Scissors
2 pins
Darning needle & sewing needle
stitch marker – optional
Polyester toy filling (fire safety standard / EN71)
Blusher
You will also need
50g of Drops Safran 100% cotton colour 21 (camel)
2g of Drops Safran 100% cotton colour 01 (desert rose pink)
Small amount of black embroidery floss
Pattern Notes
This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology and the stitch abbreviations can be found below. I have included US terminology in brackets if you wish to convert.
The head, arms and ears are made in continuous rounds or spirals. It is a method commonly used in amigurumi and means there will be no visible seams. Therefore, when you start a new round just work it into the next st. I recommend marking the first st of each round with a st marker.
Starting chains in the blanket section counts as a stitch throughout the pattern unless otherwise stated. Repeats are marked by asterisks *.
Dc – double crochet / single crochet (US) BLO – back loop only
Htr – half treble / half double (US)
Dc2tog – decrease / Sc2tog – decrease (US)
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Tr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Htr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
BLO: Work stitch as stated, but in back loop of stitch only.
Dc2tog – decrease st worked over 2 stitches: insert hook under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Gauge:
Please check your gauge to obtain stated size and to ensure yarn quantities stated are achieved. If your swatch is too small, try going up a hook size to obtain gauge. If your swatch size is too big try going down a hook size to obtain gauge. Of course, gauge isn’t imperative as this is not a garment that is worn. However, if you do not check your gauge, you may need more yarn than stated and your lovey may turn out smaller or larger than stated.
Round 2: 2dc in next st and in each st around (12dc / 12sc )
Round 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 4: *2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts*repeat around (24dc / 24sc )
Round 5: * 2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts *repeat around (30dc / 30sc )
Round 6: *2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts* repeat around (36dc / 36sc )
Round 7: *2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts* repeat around (42dc / 42sc )
Round 8: *2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts* repeat around (48dc / 48sc )
Round 9 – 13: dc in each st around (48dc / 48sc )
Round 14: *dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts* repeat around (42dc / 42sc)
Round 15: *dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts* repeat around (36dc / 36sc )
Round 16: *dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts* repeat around (30dc / 30sc )
Round 17: *dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts* repeat around (24dc / 24sc )
Round 18: *dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Now tightly stuff head with safety toy filling
In Back Loops Only (BLO)
Round 19: *dc2tog, dc in next st* repeat around (12dc / 12sc )
Fasten off leaving a long tail. You will use this to sew the head to the blanket.
How to embroider the face
Take a long length of embroider floss and split off 3 strands by holding them and pulling down the whole length. When making your stitches do not pull them to tight, a gentle tension is all that is needed. I embroidered the face with one long length of floss, to do this pull your stitches through slowly, to prevent tangling and /or knotting.
Nose:
Start by threading your sewing needle and inserting it through the bottom of the head and leaving a small tail visible hanging from the stuffing. Exit needle on row 6 from the bottom of the head, insert needle diagonally into row 8. I made my diagonal stitch over 3 dc’s width. Exit needle in row 6 under previous entry point and insert at opposite diagonal. Do not fasten off move straight onto the eyes.
Eyes:
Insert pin to mark where the eye will start, above and inline with the outside of the nose on the right side (facing you) with the floss still on your needle exit in st marked by your needle on row 11, insert needle in a gentle diagonal on row below, exit needle horizontally on same row about 2sts across, insert needle at point of last entry (back stitch), exit needle in a gentle diagonal on outside edge of eye on row above the horizontal st just made, exit needle below lid a ¼ of the way from the outside of eye and insert needle in a straight line to eye lid to make first eyelash. Exit needle below outside edge of lid at a slight angle and insert needle at outside edge of eye lid to make final eye lash. Do not fasten off.
Exit needle at point for second eye and repeat process. Finish by bringing floss through the bottom of the head and tie with starting tail and trim ends.
Round3: *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 4 – 7: dc in each st around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 8: dc2tog, dc in next 14sts, dc2tog, (16dc / 16sc )
Round 9: dc2tog, dc in next 12sts, dc2tog (14htr / 14sc )
Round 10: dc2tog, dc in next 10sts, dc2tog (12dc / 12sc )
Rounds 11 – 14: dc in each st around (12dc / 12sc )
Round 15: dc2tog all around (6dc / 6sc ) Fasten off and leave along tail, now with a darning needle attach the ears securely to the head by sewing along both the outer side and under side of the ear, catching under the stitches of the head and the ear. You may find it helpful to pin the ears into position before you sew them on. This helps you to decide on a good position and will prevent lopsided ears! Once competed weave in any loose ends.
Bow
With pink cotton
Ch 6
Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch along, turn (5dc / 5sc )
Row 2 – 10: dc in each st along, turn (5dc / 5sc )
Fasten off and weave in ends. Take long piece of cotton and tie a knot in the middle of bow, snipping short the shorter tail. Now wrap long tail several times around the middle of the bow taking care to cover the tail you snipped short. To finish take the cotton wrapped around the bow and thread needle, finish by taking needle through the wrapped cotton on the backside and knot, leaving a long tail. Now with a darning needle, securely sew bow to the head and weave in any loose ends.
Now with a small amount of blusher on a brush add two little rosy cheeks to the face.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. With a darning needle attach to underside of head securely by sewing along both the outer side and under side of the arm, catching under the stitches of the head and the arm. You may find it helpful to pin the arms into position before you sew them on. Finish by sewing criss cross the bottom of head to close the gap.
Blanket
Ch 6, slst to 1st ch to form a ring
Round 1: Ch3 (counts as tr) 15tr into ring, join with a slst to top of ch3 (16tr / 16dc )
Round 2: ch3 (counts as a tr) tr in same space, ch1, 2tr in same space, *ch1, miss a st, 2tr in next st, ch1, miss a stitch, (2tr in next st, ch1, 2tr in same space)* repeat * – * twice, ch1, miss a st, 2tr in next st, ch1, slst to top of ch3, slst to corner space
Round 3: ch3 (counts as a tr) tr in same space, ch1, 2tr in same space, *ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, (2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in same space)* repeat * – * twice, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, slst to top of ch3, slst to corner space
Rounds 4 – 8: continue rounds as round 3, you will have an extra set of 2tr, ch1 along each side in each row.
Ie/ continue with corner spaces = 2tr, ch1, 2tr, ch1
Sides = 2tr, ch1
Rounds 9 – 14: Continue as rounds 4 – 8 but add 2ch in corner spaces
Ie/ continue with corner spaces = 2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch1
Sides = 2tr, ch1
Round 15: ch2 (counts as htr), htr in same space, ch2, 2htr in same space, htr in each st and in each space along edge
Corner space = 2htr, ch2, 2htr
Fasten off and weave in ends
Now with the long tail from the head, thread darning needle and position head in centre of blanket with the face pointing to a corner of the blanket (on the diagonal) sew securely all around utilising the front loops from round 19 of head. You will also need to sew blanket to the arms also. I like to sew around the head twice just for added security.
I hope you enjoy making this Spring bunny lovey. I would love to see your makes; the easiest way to do this is to share them on your social media by tagging me @yarnyrobin and using #springbunnylovey it will honestly make me do a happy dance and I would love to share them too!
You can also follow me on Instagram at @yarnyrobin and on facebook as Baby_yarnyrobin for discounts and latest updates.
The Waiting for You baby blanket crochet pattern is now available in my Etsy store and comes in 2 sizes. You can purchase as a bundle and get the blanket and bonnet pattern for a discounted price, or you can buy them separately if you prefer. I have added a little bonus pattern for free too, which will be available to download with your purchase.
Although the bonnet pattern is written for aran weight yarn and the blanket suggests DK weight yarn, I suggest you hold two strands of DK together when making the bonnet if you want the blanket and bonnet made in the same yarn. That is what I did for the one in the picture above and it worked really well.
I would love to see your makes so don’t forget to tag me on your social media @yarnyrobin or use the #waitingforyoublanket
I am so pleased this baby blanket is off my hook, because I can’t wait to get another one on my hook but in a different colour. This beautiful vintage peach one is stroller size (33″ x 30″) and I would really like to make a slightly bigger version, so I’m not going to release the pattern just yet. I do have one pattern tester slot left for this blanket, so do get in touch with me if you fancy hooking this. If you have never pattern tested before that’s ok…it’s quite a simple process and I would be really grateful. You will get the edited pattern and another pattern of your choice for free as a thank you.
I have loved making this blanket, I love how the chunky rib border has those beautiful rounded edges and how those accent dots line up politely. The simplicity of this blanket is its charm and I have called it The Waiting for You blanket; because it is the perfect thing to make whilst you are waiting for a special arrival.
Incidentally, today happens to be random act of kindness day. I don’t think we should have a day dedicated to random kindness, I think that should be just a part of every day business. However, in the spirit of #randomactofkindnessday if you pop over to my instagram page (@yarnyrobin) you will find my pattern giveaway competition…but hurry as I will be drawing it on 18th Februaryy 2022 at 12noon GMT…that’s tomorrow!
So, I have a new blanket on my hooks. It has been a long time since I made anything bigger than a hat, so I am really enjoying the hooking and process of writing the pattern…even if I did have to frog an enormous amount…see here for the proof!
I am also on the hunt for a handful of pattern testers, so if you are interested here are the deets… there will be 2 sizes of blanket
baby blanket and stroller blanket
You need to provide your own yarn – dk weight (approx 400g in main colour and 100g in accent colour…I think…I’m still not done making the original!
Time – I need you to be able to complete the test within 4 weeks of receiving the pattern and i’m hoping to release in March.
Spot any typo’s, pattern mistakes or make suggestions if you have any.
Finally, be able to share with me a clear well lit shot…think insta worthy!
In return I will send you the full edited pattern and also another pattern of your choice from my designs and I will love you forever. So, if you are up for testing then dm me, leave a message or contact me via insta and let’s become hooky buddies.
As promised my Toasty Earflap hat pattern is now available to purchase over in my etsy shop. Available in sizes newborn – large adult it really is a pattern suitable for the whole family. Grab 10% off all my patterns until Sunday 30th Jan 2022 using code HAPPY10
I am very excited to be releasing my Toasty Earflap Hat pattern tomorrow…so watch this space! It will be available in sizes newborn to large adult, and is a really super pattern for all the family… I have already made myself and Mr R one to keep our ears toasty warm on our freezing dog walks.
I have made a very quick video to demonstrate how to crochet the crab stitch, which is the final round of the hat. I thought it may be helpful. Let me know what you think
It’s been a while since I gave you a free pattern and I really wanted to share something with you to celebrate Galentines Day, which is only a couple or so weeks away now. What’s more I’ve teamed up with my favourite coffee brand at Campfire Coffee, so you can grab 15% off some seriously awesome premium craft coffee to gift with your cosy or to sup yourself. Just use code
YARNYROBIN15
(campfire coffee offer entitles you to 15% off your order, one use per person and not valid on subscription orders)
I recommend the coffee bags for great coffee on the go!
This cute coffee cup cosy has a cute ribbed top brim and a chic lacy body made from clusters of v stitches, before nipping in at the base with a band of double crochet stitches and being finished with a yarny little heart.
The pattern is simple and quick to hook up and can be made from stash… just perfect for gifting and treating your best friends with or of course yourself!
You will need:
a small amount baby / sport weight yarn. I used Scheepjes stone washed in Moon Stone and Red Jasper. Pattern does share how to make cosy smaller or larger, so dk yarn will work also.
3.5mm hook,
darning needle to weave in the ends.
Abbreviations used UK terminology (American terminology in brackets)
Turning ch does not count as a st unless otherwise stated
V cluster st – in same st, 2tr, ch1, 2tr (in same st 2dc, ch1, 2dc)
We will start by making the ribbed brim.
Ch5
Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook and in each st along (4dc), ch1 turn,
IN BACK LOOPS ONLY
Row 2: Dc in each st along, ch1 turn (4dc)
when making the rib, crochet into the back loop of each stitch only as shown.
Rows 3 – 33: repeat row 2 (increase or decrease rows in rib to fit around your cup. Rib number of rows must however be a multiple of 3, remember the cosy will stretch) join rib ends with a slst to form a circle, ch1
Round 1: work 33 dc into top of rib, ch2 (or dc the equivalent number to rows in your rib eg/ 30 rows in rib then 30dc in row 4)
Round 2: * v cluster in 1st st, miss 2sts,* repeat * – * to end of round, join with a slst in top of ch2 (11 v clusters)
Round 3: ch2, *v cluster in ch 1 of previous round* see picture below. Repeat * – * all around, slst in top of ch2
Round 4 – 6: repeat round 3
Round 7: ch1, dc in first st, *miss a st, dc in next st* repeat all around, slst in top of ch1 (29dc)
Round 8 – 10: ch1, dc in each st around, slst in top of ch1 (29dc) fasten off at end of round 10.
In accent colour make heart. If you would like more of a photo tutorial for this click here otherwise follow the instructions below.
Ch2
Round 1: 10dc into 2nd ch from hook, slst in to top of 1st dc form a circle
Round 2: Ch 1, 2dc into each st around (20dc)
Round 3: Ch4 (counts as a dtr), 1dtr in the next 3 sts, 1tr in next 4sts, 1htr in next st, dc in next st, ch3, slst into same space (this creates a picot), dc in next st, 1htr in next st, 1tr in next 4 sts, 1dtr in next 4 sts, slst in to ch1 of beginning ch4.
Round 4: ch4 (counts as a dtr), 3dtr into next 3sts, (these are actually the chains from previous round) 1tr in next 3 sts, 1htr into the next st, 1dc in next 4sts, slst in picot space, ch3, slst in to same space (picot made), 1dc in next 4 sts,1htr in next st, 1tr in next 3 sts, 1dtr in next 4sts,
slst in to the cleft of the heart to finish. Fasten off leaving a long tail and sew to cosy, weaving in any loose ends.
Now, just make as many cosy’s as you have best friends and don’t forget to grab 15% off some awesome coffee to complete your gift by using code
Hey lovelies, I’m in need of pattern testers again. This time for my Toasty Ear Flap Hat. Written for sizes newborn – large adult.
Here’s what I’m looking for.
Do I need to have test crochet before?
Nope… as long as you can crochet and read from a written pattern you are good to apply to be my tester. Infact, I am looking for people with varying abilities of crochet.
Is there a deadline?
Yes…if you are successful in applying for the role of tester I will require you to finish the test within a week of receiving the pattern.
Other than crochet the pattern on time what else do you need me to do? Good question! I will need you to give me lots of feedback, to include the good, the bad and the ugly! Spot typo’s and grammatical errors and make pattern corrections. I need you to keep in touch even if this means you can’t meet the deadline…life happens, I understand that.
I also require a good quality photo of the finished item that I will be able to use on all social media, my blog and in my Etsy shop…I will of course tag you. Photo’s need to be clear and free from a cluttered background…think insta worthy!
I will require you to be active on social media, ideally you need to be active on Instagram and or facebook with a public account….What does this mean? I would like you to share photo’s with specific hashtags for the pattern, both during and after testing and the pattern is available on general release,
Do I get paid to test a pattern?
Nope…I wish I could say yes, but sadly the answer is no! You also need to be able to provide your own materials…in this case a small quantity of aran / worsted weight yarn and fluffy pompom (or make your own woolly pompom) However, you will get the pattern fully edited for free and you can choose another of my patterns for free also. If your photo’s are of good quality I will use them here on my blog and in my social media / Etsy shop and I will always tag you so people can head your way!
So if you are interested and can turn this around for me within 7 days, and you are happy with the terms above, ideally send me a direct message on instagram…you will find me @yarnyrobin. I have about 4 spaces available and if you are successful I will be in touch within the next week.
ayarnyrobin.com 