With Christmas fast approaching I wanted to share with you a fabulous and practical pattern, perfect for this festive season. These handy baskets can be used to gift or store festive chocolates or just add a little seasonal decor around the home.
These baskets are super versatile. You can swap the colours to suit your own style and add whatever decorations you choose, here I have chosen to add a sweet wooden snowflake, but ribbons, bows and bells would look just as good. The best bit about these baskets is the wooden base.
The wooden base makes this a super quick make and means the basket has a great shape and is sturdy…all good elements for a useful basket to have. You will find bases in all sorts of shapes and sizes on lots of different shopping sites. I got mine from Etsy, as I like to support small business owners when I can. Take a look here to get started
I would just like to talk about your choice of yarn or cord for a moment also. I purchased several versions before I settled on one I was happy with. Some were too splitty, or dull, or just didn’t crochet well. I highly recommend using this 5mm braided recycled cotton cord because it is economical, comes in a great colour range and is easy to work with. I used colourways Candy red and Natural.
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Pattern notes
The pattern that follows can be adapted to any size or shape base. The pattern uses English crochet terminology, but you can find US crochet terminology in brackets just below. Round 3 onwards is worked in continuous rounds, so I strongly advise that you mark the 1st stitch of each round with a stitch marker. Repeats are marked by *
What you will need
5mm braided cotton cord in colour of your choice
wooden base(s)
scissors
hooks – see below
stitch marker
decorations of your choice – bows / bells / small tree ornaments
Stitches used
DC – double crochet ( SC – single crochet)
slst – slip stitch
Ch – chain stitch
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Hooks used
5mm and 8mm
To start
Start by holding cord underneath the base. Using smaller hook pull up a loop through the first hole in the base.
Yarn over and pull through loop on your hook.
*Pull up next loop from the underside of base through next hole and complete DC* Repeat around base to last hole. Slst in 1st st.
Now turn work so outside of the basket is facing you.
Round 2: Using larger hook. Ch1 (does not count as a st) place marker. DC in same space and in each st around. At end of round place marker.
Round 3: Do not ch 1, continue to place DC in each st for desired height of basket, placing marker in 1st stitch of each round. Change colours as desired.
eg/ large basket pictured had a base with 37 holes / 17cm diameter. I completed rounds 1 – 8 in candy red and rounds 9 – 11 in natural. Final round in natural also. My basket measures 14cms tall.
Final round: Do not ch1, slst in each st around. Fasten off.
With smaller hook weave in loose ends. Weave starting tail at base so that it fills in the gap.
Now decorate your basket as desired.
Next steps
If you have enjoyed this pattern you can help support what I do by
This beautiful little bumble bee is currently FREE in July’s newsletter which you can sign up to just here…
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These cute little bees have so many uses. I’m currently making lots to send into Forest School for the children to count with, play hide and seek with and to spark conversations about just how important our bees are!
They would also be really great if you sell at markets as they are quick and easy to make. They would be great as magnets, pin badges, class mate gifts, decorations for wreaths and a whole host of other decorations! Let your mind run free!!
This is a super cute and quick make, so perfect to hook if you have an upcoming craft fair or if you wanted to make in time for Valentines Day as a treat for yourself or as a Galentine’s gift for your Bestie! The pattern is only available in adult size at the moment, hopefully I can carve out some more time to grade it for other sizes.
I get lots of questions about where I get my labels for my hats…the answer is Etsy! My labels are cork labels made from 100% sustainable material that is vegan. There are lots of custom sellers, so if you are looking for some labels or tags go and check them out.
The pattern is suitable for beginners and just uses a double crochet stitch (single crochet stitch), and some decrease stitches. It is important not to have your tension very tight or the teeny, tiny hearts become pinched. I used Stylecraft Softie which is a chunky yarn blend 20% wool 80%acrylic. I did try with some other chunky yarn, but I got the best results with the Softie, it just gives a subtle amount of drape which feels lovely to wear.
You can also purchase a printable PDF of this pattern which is available in both UK and US crochet terms over in my Etsy shop for less than a cup of coffee which you can access just here
Yarn – chunky / bulky see further below for recommended yarns.
20% superwash wool 80% acrylic blend
Adult – approx. 95g
Main colour – approx..80g
Accent colour approx. 15g
Size Guide.
Adult – to fit head circ. 22” / 55.8cms
Measurements are approximate and I advise you measure the intended head wherever possible. This beanie allows for a 2” / 5cm negative ease (the amount of stretch)
Stitch Abbreviations.
Ch – chain
Slst – slip stitch
Dc – double crochet
Hs – Heart stitch
Dec – decrease
BLO – work st into the back loop only (see photo at back of pattern)
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Hs: Insert hook under both loops of stitch, in accent colour – yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook (1st loop in main colour, 2nd loop in accent colour), in main colour – yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook to complete st. See top tip below! See Pic 1 – 4
Dec: decrease st worked over 2 stitches: insert hook under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Top Tip:
When working the heart stitch and you yarn over and pull through in accent colour, pull loop up a little higher than you would for a regular dc stitch as this helps to keep the heart lying flat instead of pulled too tight.
Pattern Notes.
This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology and the stitch abbreviations can be found below.
Ch1 does not count as a stitch throughout the pattern unless otherwise stated. Repeats are marked by asterisks *.
The hat is worked by making the ribbed brim and joining one end to the other to form a circle. The main body of the hat is then worked in rounds.
When working Rounds 3 and 5 and subsequent repeats carry non-working yarn along the round (see pic 5)
When working rounds 4 and 6 and subsequent repeats drop accent colour yarn and pick up again on next round
Top Tip:
When working a dc in round above heart st, insert hook into side of heart as shown in Pic 6 as this will make it easier.
Yarn Suggestions.
Stylecraft Softie chunky is the recommended yarn for the pattern, but here are some similar substitutes…
King Cole Timeless Chunky
King Cole Big Value Baby Soft Chunky
King Cole Shadow Chunky
Red Heart Gemstone
Bernat Wavelength
Gauge
It is very important to check your gauge to ensure your beanie will fit.
To do this make a gauge swatch in the yarn you will be using for the body of the hat. If this matches the gauge, you’re good to go! If your swatch is too big, try using a smaller hook to obtain correct gauge. If your swatch is too small, try using a larger hook to obtain correct gauge.
Using chunky / bulky yarn swatch 11dc x 14 rows = 4” x4” (10cm x 10cm)
Please do not modify, resell, publish in part or in full, or share this pattern or photo’s as your own.
You may sell finished items made from this pattern, I hope it becomes a hot item for you; but please credit, with a link, that the item is made using @yarnyrobin pattern.
Please also tag your makes on your social using #miniheartbeanie @yarnyrobin because I love to see what you make!
In main colour
Row 1: Ch8, dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch along, turn do not ch1 (7dc)
Row 2 – 62: IN BLO dc in each st across, turn do not ch1 (7dc)
Slst row 62 to beginning row to form a circle. Turn brim inside out so the seam is on the inside. We will now be working in rounds around the brim of the hat.
Working with right side facing you in main colour
Round 1: ch1, 64dc evenly around top of brim – 2dc in first and last st then aim to place a dc at the top of each rib, join with a slst to 1st dc (64dc)
Round 2: ch1, dc in each st around, join with a slst to 1st dc (64dc)
Round 3: ch1, dc in same st, hs * dc, hs * repeat around, last st is a hs, slst to top 1st dc (32dc / 32hs)
Round 4: repeat round 2
Round 5: ch1, hs in same st, dc * hs, dc * repeat around, last st is a dc, slst to top of 1st hs (32hs / 32 dc)
Round 6: repeat round 2
Repeat Rounds 3 – 6: 2 more times(total of 8 rounds)
Round 15: repeat round 3
Round 16: repeat round 2
Round 17: repeat round 5
Round 18: ch1,dc in same st,decrease * dc,decrease * in each st around, skip last st, slst into 1st dc (21dc / 21dec)
Round 19: ch1,dc in same st,decrease * dc,decrease * in each st around, st, slst into 1st dc (14dc / 14dec)
Round 20: ch1,decrease in each st around, skip last st (13dec)
Hat measures 8.5” from brim to crown
Fasten off cutting yarn leaving a long tail approx. 20cms from hat. Thread darning needle and weave in and out of the top loops of last round. Pull the end tight to gather and secure with a few stitches. Weave in any loose ends. Now add your pom (see end of pattern for details)
Add pom
Add a faux fur pom to complete the look. Or alternatively make your own pom. I added a Trimits pompom as they tie into the hat easily, which makes them really easy to remove for when you want to launder your beanie.
If you are making your own pom you have a couple of options. You could use a pom pom maker however, I favour making my pompoms using the method my Grandma taught me; using 2 pieces of cardboard. I like my pompoms to be really full and lush and so I wrap each pompom with a minimum of 3 layers of yarn. My card circles have an outer diameter of approx. 4.5” / 11cms.
TOP TIP: If making your own poms leave long tails when you tie your pompoms off as it will make attaching them to your hat much easier. If your pompoms are in a different colour to your hat, tie your pompoms off with the main colour of the hat as it makes weaving in the ends much neater.
REMEMBER: IF MAKING YOUR OWN POM YOU WILL NEED MORE YARN THAN STATED IN THIS PATTERN.
You can also purchase a printable PDF of this pattern which is available in both UK and US crochet terms over in my Etsy shop for less than a cup of coffee which you can access just here
With Her Majesty’s Platinum Jubilee just around the corner I thought I’d share my progress on my Jubilee decorations and share the pattern with you. After all what good is a garden party or afternoon tea without a bit of bunting?
To make the bunting flags please see my previous post just here They are simple to make and the lace trim gives a pretty, vintage vibe. What’s more if you tie your embellishments to the flags rather than sew them on, the bunting can be recycled and dressed up again for the next occasion / holiday season in your calendar…clever eh!
I wanted my Jubilee bunting to be traditional in colour , so of course it had to be red, white and blue, but I wanted it to look pretty and almost understated, so you won’t find any navy or lipstick red here! instead I chose a more muted red tone and coupled it with a mid blue. I also wanted to incorporate the Union Jack and found these gorgeous little buttons, which again are more subtle in tone.
This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology and the stitch abbreviations can be found below. I have included US terminology in brackets if you wish to convert.
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Tr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Large Jubilee Rose
In cherry
Leave a long tail, ch 50
Tr in 2nd ch from hook, tr in each ch along, dc in last ch
Ch3, turn
2tr in same space, 3tr in each st a long, dc in last st. Fasten off leaving a long tail
Small Jubilee Rose
In denim blue
Leave a long tail, ch 33
Tr in 2nd ch from hook, tr in each ch along, dc in last ch
Ch3, turn
2tr in same space, 3tr in each st a long, dc in last st. Fasten off leaving a long tail
To assemble
Spiral flower in an anti-clockwise direction with one long tail at the front of the rose and one long tail at the back of the rose. With a darning needle take the front tail through to the back of the rose to secure centre petal. Now make several passes of the needle at back of the rose making sure you catch all the layers of the rose. With other tail, thread darning needle and make several more passes at the back of the rose. Tie tails together in a knot to secure. Attach to bunting by passing both tails with a darning needle through to back of flag and tie neatly so tails tuck neatly behind flag and can be easily removed when you wish to re-dress your bunting. Add buttons to string in between flags with hot glue / glue gun.
If you like this pattern and would like me to continue to share my patterns please give me a clap and follow me on instagram
I would love to see your Jubilee Roses, so please tag me in your makes on social media and I will share your lovely makes.
With only a week until Easter Sunday, I thought I would share the pattern for these Easter bunny ears I made yesterday. I was making a little newborn bunny photo shoot outfit and needed some cute floppy bunny ears to complete the look. I am using my Baby Bear Bonnet Pattern and my own diaper cover pattern which I have just not had chance to write up yet!
They are super simple to make. I used Stylecraft special Aran weight yarn in grey and cream and a 5mm hook and my finished floppy bunny ears measure approx.16cms long.
The outer ears are worked in the round, with the inner ears worked in rows and made separately then sewn into place. My pattern is written using UK terminology but I have provided a US stitch conversion below. Please note chain stitches do not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
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Round 1: 6htr into 2nd ch from hook, join with a slst into top of 1st htr, ch1 . ( 6htr see pic 1.)
Round 2: 2htr in each st around, join with a slst into top of 1st htr, ch1. (12htr see pic 2.)
Round3: *2htr in next st, 1 htr in next st* repeat around, join with a slst into top of 1st htr, ch1. (18htr see pic 3.)
Round 4 – 9: htr in each st around, join with a slst into top of 1st htr, ch1. (18htr see pic 4.)
Round 10: htr2tog, htr in next 14sts, htr2tog, join with a slst in top of 1st htr, ch1 (16htr)
Round 11: htr2tog, htr in next 12sts, htr2tog, join with a slst in top of 1st htr, ch1 (14htr)
Round 12: htr2tog, htr in next 10sts, htr2tog, join with a slst in top of 1st htr, ch1 (12htr see pic 5.)
Rounds 13 – 17: htr in each st around, join with slst in 1st htr, ch1 (12htr see pic 6.)
Round 18: htr2tog all around, join with a slst in 1st htr, ch1 and turn (6htr)
Now flatten circle and slst edges together, fasten off and leave an extra long tail for sewing…longer than you normally would, trust me here as you will need the extra length later! (see pic 7)
Inner Ear is made in rows
make 2
In cream
Row 1: ch4, htr in 2nd ch from hook and in each st along, ch1 and turn (3htr)
Row 2: 2htr, htr, 2htr, ch1, turn (5htr)
Row 3: 2htr, htr in next 3sts, 2htr, ch1, turn (7htr)
Row 4 – 6: htr in each st, ch1, turn (7htr)
Row 7: htr2tog, htr in each st along, ch1, turn (6htr)
Row 8: htr2tog, htr in each st along, ch1, turn (5htr)
Row 9 -11: htr in each st, ch1, turn (5htr)
Row 12: htr2tog, htr in each st, ch1, turn (4htr see pic 8.)
Row 13: htr in each st along, ch1, turn (4htr)
slst all around inner ear to finish, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew to outer ear (see pic 9)
To attach bunny ears to chosen bonnet/hat I found that giving the top of the ear a twist and securing with a couple of stitches, gives the ear a little bounce and allows the inner ear to peek out. If the ear is not twisted before attaching to bonnet / hat then you will not be able to see the inner ear…which seems a shame, been as you have just gone to the effort of hooking them. See Pic 10 to see where to twist and sew (indicated by red dots).
Finally pin and securely sew your bunny ears to your bonnet. If you prefer a hat why not checkout My Best Beanie Pattern available in sizes newborn to large adult.
Now all that’s left to do is enjoy all of that floppy bunny ear cuteness!
Please do let me know what you think by dropping me a sentence in the comments below…I love to get your feedback and a like or a share goes a long way too!
I just wanted to share these bunny ear knot headbands with you because they are so adorably sweet. I found the pattern on pintrest and have popped a link in for you below if you fancied hooking your own in time for Easter.
I did find the sizing a slight issue in that the pattern goes from 0 – 3 months right through to adult and by my sizing guide I feel it should be newborn – 6 – 10 years.
Having said that the pattern is beautifully written and the extended double crochet (sc) stitch is so pretty and delicate and those bunny ears….well they are just adorable don’t you think?
I think this sweet bunny headband would make an excellent Spring / Easter newborn photo prop, or a lovely little Spring baby shower gift. It would also look cute for an Easter Egg hunt or just for every day wear too.
So, if you fancy hooking your own you will find the pattern by clicking the link below
I just wanted to share with you this very sweet and quick make, that I hooked up a couple of weeks ago now, for little Jess. I did want to make it in navy with rainbow stripes to match Mr R’s hat…but Mr R was not the least bit impressed by this at all!!
The pattern details can be found at the end of this post. It’s a lovely little free pattern, which gives directions to make a bespoke dog sweater based on measurements for your dog…so you can make any size you need to!
Jess, was rather proud with the finished item and was happy to pose. I love the ribbed collar and waist band and because it is bespoke just for Jess, I was able to make the leg holes just for her, so it fits comfortably and allows for natural movement.
I finished the sweater off with one of my cork labels.
I think I will still make one with navy with rainbow stripes to match Mr R…
As promised Ginny, here is my pattern for these cute Corfu barefoot sandals.
You will need approx. 7m of yarn for each sandal, I used Paintbox dk cotton in cream and a 4mm hook.Â
You will also need x5 beads for each sandal, I used beads from a cheap bracelet. Just make sure the threading hole in the bead is large enough for your yarn.Â
Other useful items you will need are a pair of scissors and a darning needle to weave in the ends.
This pattern uses English terminology and the following abbreviations:
Ch – chain stitch
st- stitch
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
htr- half treble
tr – treble crochet
dtr – double treble crochet
By adjusting the number of chains in the ties, you can make them longer or shorter to suit. Additionally adjusting the number of chains in the toe loop for comfort may be required.Â
To skip photo tutorial, head to the end of the post for written pattern without photo’s.
So, assuming you have gathered your supplies cut at least 7m of yarn from the ball, knot one end and thread X5 beads on. The X2 beads nearest the knot will be located at the end of the ties of the sandal, the following X2 beads will be located, just before the tie chain starts, and the last bead you thread will be the bead nearest the toes (I used a different bead which was larger and sparkly for this)…the darker bead in the photo.
move the beads to the end of the yarn for later…
Now, starting at the other end of the yarn to the beads, leave a long length, approx. 50cms. You will use this at the end to make the toe loop. Make a loopÂ
Chain 6 and bring first bead down
Join with a slip stitch into 1st chain – catching / incorporating the bead in the centre
Ch4 (counts as a dtr)Â As you make the next stitches around the bead be careful not to weave in the long tail that you are saving for your toe loop.
2dtr into loop (this can be a bit fiddly getting the hook in next to the bead)
Continue working in the loop around the bead as follows
2tr, 2htr, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 2dtr
and join with slst in top of beginning ch4 (feather made).
Now ch6,
in 2nd ch from hook *dc, 2tr,dc* (1st cluster)
miss a st and repeat *—* (2nd cluster), slst into top of feather.
Turn work so feather is on the your right hand side
The next set of stitches will be made in the base of the 1st cluster st, (see photo). But first, bring the second bead down and rest it on top of cluster, now slst in base of cluster st to secure.
*Dc,2tr,dc* in same space.Â
Bring down third bead and repeat *—* in second cluster.
To finish cluster slst in 1st ch at the start of 1st cluster (see photo above).
*Ch55, bring down 4th bead, slst into 4th ch from hook and pull tight to secure bead.
Dc in each ch back to cluster, slst into top of cluster* (tie made) repeat *—* to make second tie. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Returning to length of yarn left at start, weave end to bottom of feather
insert hook into top st of central dtr and pull up a loop
Ch12 and slst into top of central dtr which you started ch from. Tie off and weave in ends.Â
Now to make another!Â
I really hope you have enjoyed making these barefoot sandals, I would love to see some pictures if you have.
xxxxx
Written pattern without photo’s.
Corfu Barefoot sandal by ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com
cut at least 7m of yarn from the ball, knot one end and thread X5 beads on. The X2 beads nearest the knot will be located at the end of the ties of the sandal, the following X2 beads will be located, just before the tie chain starts, and the last bead you thread will be the bead nearest the toes
Now, starting at the other end of the yarn to the beads, leave a long length, approx. 50cms. You will use this at the end to make the toe loop.Â
Make a loop, Ch6 and bring first bead down, join with a slip stitch into 1st chain – catching / incorporating the bead in the centre.
Ch4 (counts as a dtr)Â As you make the next stitches around the bead be careful not to weave in the long tail that you are saving for your toe loop. 2dtr into loop (this can be a bit fiddly getting the hook in next to the bead).
Continue working in the loop around the bead as follows 2tr, 2htr, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr, 2dtr and join with slst in top of beginning ch4 (feather made).
Ch6, in 2ch from hook *dc, 2tr,dc* (1st cluster) miss a st and repeat *—* (2nd cluster), slst into top of feather.
Turn work so feather is on the your right hand side.
The next set of stitches will be made in the base of the 1st cluster st. But first, bring the second bead down and rest it on top of cluster, now slst in base of cluster st to secure. *Dc,2tr,dc* in same space.Â
Bring down third bead and repeat *—* in second cluster.
To finish cluster slst in 1st ch at the start of 1st cluster. *Ch55, bring down 4th bead, slst into 4th ch from hook and pull tight to secure bead.
Dc in each ch back to cluster, slst into top of cluster* (tie made), repeat *—* to make second tie. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Returning to length of yarn left at start, weave end to bottom of feather, insert hook into top st of central dtr and pull up a loop, Ch12 and slst into top of central dtr which you started ch from. Tie off and weave in ends. Â