Below are 5 ready-made spring crochet colour palettes you can use straight away — whether you’re making a baby blanket, a gift, or something just for you.
📌 Save This For Later
This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting ayarnyrobin — every little bit helps keep the free patterns coming. for more information please see our privacy policy
Yarn Tip
These palettes are based on Stylecraft Special shades, but you can easily match them across other yarn brands or cotton ranges. If you prefer working with coordinated colour systems, ranges like Paintbox Yarns make it especially easy to recreate these combinations.
1. Spring Blossom Palette
A soft, delicate palette inspired by spring blossoms.
Colours:
Blush • Sage • Soft peach • Cream • Parchment
Best for:
Baby blankets, loveys, bonnets
Tip:
Use cream as your base and let blush tones add warmth without overwhelming your project.
Spring Meadow Palette
A calm, earthy palette that feels fresh and modern.
Colours:
Bottle • Cypress • Lincoln • Parchment • Mocha
Best for:
Neutral baby gifts, garments, home decor
Tip:
Use the darker shade sparingly to ground the palette and add depth.
Spring Rainbow Palette
A soft take on rainbow colours — perfect for spring.
Colours:
Raspberry • Vintage Peach • Buttermilk • Lincoln • Storm Blue
Choosing the right crochet colour palette can transform even the simplest project into something beautiful and thoughtfully handmade.
If you’ve ever stood staring at yarn wondering which colours actually work together — this simple formula will make choosing crochet colour palettes easy.
You might have the perfect pattern ready — a baby blanket, bonnet, or crochet toy — but suddenly you’re staring at a wall of yarn wondering which colours actually work together.
The good news is that creating beautiful crochet colour combinations doesn’t need to be complicated.
In this guide I’ll show you:
• how to choose colours that work together
• simple crochet colour palette formulas
• how to plan colour palettes before you start crocheting
• beautiful colour pallete suggestions
Struggling To Put Yarn Colours Together?
Choosing colours sounds simple… until you’re staring at yarn wondering what actually works together.
I use a simple planner to map out my palettes before I start — it takes the guesswork out completely.
Download your Crochet Colour Planner here and follow along as you read.
Colour is often what makes a crochet project feel truly special.
Even a simple stitch pattern can look stunning when the colours are carefully chosen.
Soft, balanced palettes can make handmade pieces feel:
• timeless
• calming
• beautifully coordinated
This is especially true for crochet baby gifts, where gentle colours tend to photograph beautifully and suit modern nurseries.
The Simple 5 Colour Crochet Palette Rule
If choosing colours feels overwhelming, this simple 5 colour rule makes it much easier.
Instead of randomly choosing yarn shades, try building a palette using five colours.
1 Main Colour
The dominant colour used most in the project.
1 Secondary Colour
Supports the main colour and adds interest.
1 Light Neutral
Cream, off-white or soft beige.
1 Dark Neutral
A grounding colour like taupe, mocha or soft grey.
1 Accent Colour
A small pop of colour used sparingly.
This structure creates palettes that feel balanced, calm and intentional.
How The Colour Wheel Helps You Choose Crochet Colours
The colour wheel is a simple tool that helps crocheters choose yarn colours that work beautifully together.
It is made up of primary colours (red, yellow and blue),
secondary colours (orange, green and violet) and tertiary colours, which sit between them.
By looking at how colours relate on the wheel, you can quickly find combinations that feel balanced, harmonious or full of contrast.
Primary Colours
Primary colours sit at the foundation of the colour wheel.
The three primary colours are:
Yellow, Red, and Blue
In crochet, these often appear as softer yarn shades such as mustard yellow, dusty red or muted blue.
Secondary Colours
Secondary colours sit between the primary colours on the wheel.
These include:
Orange, Green, and Purple
In yarn palettes, these shades often appear as sage greens, warm terracotta oranges or soft lavender purples, which work beautifully as main colours in crochet projects.
Tertiary Colours
Tertiary colours sit between the primary and secondary colours on the wheel and create softer, more complex shades.
Examples include:
Yellow-Orange, Red-Orange, Red-Violet, Blue-Violet, Blue-Green, and Yellow-Green
These tones often feel more subtle and natural, which is why they appear so often in modern crochet colour palettes.
How To Use The Colour Wheel For Crochet Palettes
Understanding how colours sit on the colour wheel can help you choose yarn colours that feel balanced and cohesive.
Colours that sit close together on the colour wheel tend to create calm, harmonious palettes.
Choosing colours from opposite sides of the wheel can add a beautiful accent contrast, creating a subtle pop of colour that helps crochet patterns stand out.
A simple approach when planning crochet colour combinations is to choose:
one main colour, one or two secondary colours, neutral shades to balance the palette and an accent colour.
On the colour wheel this would look like your chosen main colour, your secondary colour would be chosen from a close neighbour of the main colour, and the accent colour from the opposite on the wheel.
Don’t Forget About Neutrals
Black, white and neutral shades are not traditionally included in the colour wheel, but they shouldn’t be underestimated.
Colours like cream, oatmeal, soft grey, taupe and stone can act as a gentle backdrop that helps other colours shine.
It can be helpful to put neutrals into two categories. Light neutrals and dark neutrals. I find having a light and a dark neutral in a project helps to balance the palette and stop it looking flat or washed out.
In crochet projects, neutrals are often used for borders, joining rounds or background stitches because they help tie multiple colours together and give the finished piece a calm, cohesive look.
Think of this as a helpful guide rather than a strict rule — playing with colour should be fun, and you can always adapt to suit your style.
Using More Than 5 Colours
Using more than five colours can work beautifully too — just start with your 5 core colours, then add lighter or darker shades of your main, secondary, and accent colours to keep everything feeling soft and coordinated.
Plan Your Crochet Colour Palettes
When you’re making multiple baby gifts — such as a blanket, bonnet and toy — using a coordinated palette makes everything feel like a thoughtful handmade set.
To make this easier, I’ve created a crochet colour toolkit where you can:
• test colour combinations
• map out crochet projects
• organise yarn palettes
Download My Free Crochet Colour Toolkit
This is where most crocheters get stuck…
It’s not picking colours — it’s knowing if they’ll actually work together once you start.
Before I commit to a project, I lay everything out using my planner so I can see the balance clearly.
You can grab it here and try it with your own yarn stash.
Choosing colours for crochet doesn’t have to feel overwhelming.
By starting with a simple palette structure and taking inspiration from nature and your surroundings you can create projects that feel calm, coordinated and beautifully handmade.
And once you begin planning colours intentionally, you may find your crochet projects start to look more like thoughtfully designed gift sets rather than individual pieces.
Which is one of the most special things about handmade baby gifts.
What To Do Next
Planning your palette first makes everything feel intentional instead of guesswork.
Use the planner to test your colours before you crochet a single stitch.
This easy crochet cup cosy is a quick and thoughtful handmade project, perfect for gifting, craft fairs, or everyday use.
Although this crochet cup cosy was originally designed as a Valentine’s Day make, it’s a lovely little project to crochet all year round. Whether you’re making one as a small handmade gift, a cosy treat for yourself, or a quick stash-busting project using yarn you already own, this cup cosy is simple, practical, and perfect for everyday use.
This easy crochet cup cosy tutorial shows you how to make a cosy step-by-step using simple stitches — perfect for beginners and a fun stash-busting project.
This cute coffee cup cosy has a cute ribbed top brim and a chic lacy body made from clusters of v stitches, before nipping in at the base with a band of double crochet stitches and being finished with a yarny little heart.
The pattern is simple and quick to hook up and can be made from stash… just perfect for gifting and treating your best friends or of course yourself! They are also great sellers at markets, so if you are a finished piece seller, they make a great low-cost, high-appeal item for fairs and craft markets.
this post contains affiliate links, which means if you choose to purchase through them, i earn a small commission at no extra cost to you, which helps to support this blog.
Materials
a small amount baby / sport weight yarn. I used Scheepjes stone washed in Moon Stone and Red Jasper. Pattern does share how to make cosy smaller or larger, so dk yarn will work also.
Turning ch does not count as a st unless otherwise stated
V st – in same st, 2tr, ch1, 2tr (in same st 2dc, ch1, 2dc)
BLO – work in back loop only
If you’d prefer a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, the PDF is available to download below in both UK and US versions — ideal for offline crocheting or for keeping in your pattern library.
⭐ Easy to print and follow anywhere ⭐ Ad-free for a calm crochet experience ⭐ Available to download in both UK and US crochet terms ⭐ Helps support my small crochet business
Ribbed Brim.
Ch5
Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook and in each st along (4dc), ch1 turn,
IN BACK LOOPS ONLY
Row 2: Dc in each st along, ch1 turn (4dc)
when making the rib, crochet into the back loop of each stitch only as shown.
Rows 3 – 33: repeat row 2 (increase or decrease rows in rib to fit around your cup. Rib number of rows must however be a multiple of 3, remember the cosy will stretch) join rib ends with a slst to form a circle, ch1
Round 1: work 33 dc into top of rib, ch2 (or dc the equivalent number to rows in your rib eg/ 30 rows in rib then 30dc in row 4)
Round 2: * v stitch in 1st st, miss 2sts,* repeat * – * to end of round, join with a slst in top of ch2 (11 v stitches)
Round 3: ch2, *v stitch in ch 1 of previous round* see picture below. Repeat * – * all around, slst in top of ch2
Round 4 – 6: repeat round 3
Round 7: ch1, dc in first st, *miss a st, dc in next st* repeat all around, slst in top of ch1 (29dc)
Round 8 – 10: ch1, dc in each st around, slst in top of ch1 (29dc) fasten off at end of round 10.
In accent colour make heart. If you would like more of a photo tutorial for this click here otherwise follow the instructions below.
Ch2
Round 1: 10dc into 2nd ch from hook, slst in to top of 1st dc form a circle
Round 2: Ch 1, 2dc into each st around (20dc)
Round 3: Ch4 (counts as a dtr), 1dtr in the next 3 sts, 1tr in next 4sts, 1htr in next st, dc in next st, ch3, slst into same space (this creates a picot), dc in next st, 1htr in next st, 1tr in next 4 sts, 1dtr in next 4 sts, slst in to bottom ch1 of beginning ch4.
Round 4: ch4 (counts as a dtr), 3dtr into next 3sts, (these are actually the chains from previous round) 1tr in next 3 sts, 1htr into the next st, 1dc in next 4sts, slst in picot space, ch4, slst in to same space (picot made), 1dc in next 4 sts,1htr in next st, 1tr in next 3 sts, 1dtr in next 4sts,
slst in to the cleft of the heart to finish. Fasten off leaving a long tail and sew to cosy, weaving in any loose ends.
Now, just make as many cosy’s as you have best friends or just make one for yourself!
If you enjoyed this pattern, I’d love to know. Please leave a comment below, give the post a like, or save it to Pinterest so you can find it again later. Every little bit of support helps keep these free patterns coming — thank you so much for being here.
Want to stay organised with your crochet projects? You can join my email list to receive your free Crochet Project Planner and lots of cosy crochet inspiration.
This delightful granny square crochet blanket pattern is a classic, beginner-friendly crochet project that’s perfect for creating a beautiful handmade gift. Updated for March 2026, this easy crochet baby blanket pattern uses simple granny squares to create a timeless design that works with any colour palette. Whether you’re creating for a new baby, making a baby shower gift, or just using up your stash, this pattern is relaxing and fun to make and comes together into a soft, cosy blanket you’ll treasure.
⭐ Easy to print and follow anywhere ⭐ No ads – just the pattern ⭐ UK or US crochet terms included ⭐ Instant download
This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting ayarnyrobin — every little bit helps keep the free patterns coming. for more information please see our privacy policy
Pattern Notes
As always I’m using English crochet terminology. Ch – chain Slst – slip stitch dc – double crochet tr – treble crochet
ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated. I’m using drops muskat cotton.
ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated. I’m using drops muskat cotton.
Materials
I’m using Drops Muskat in the colours and quantities listed below per square,
red – 100g old pink – 80g white – 50g vanilla yellow – 65g dark orange -20g
sky blue – 35g apple green – 50g and a 4mm crochet hook and a 3.5mm crochet hook
Prefer to make this in an acryllic yarn then why not try Stylecraft Special DK Yarn amount For each square you will need Less than 5g – Spice Less than 5g – Cornish blue Less than 5g – white Less than 5g – Apple Less than 5g – Citron Less than 5g – Blush Less than 10g – Lipstick For a blanket made of 16 squares you will need x 1 ball (100g) of each colour and x3 balls of lipstick (300g
Each lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.
You will need to make 16 squares to make this blanket arranged 4 x 4…
of course you can make more squares if you wish to make a larger version.
📌Save for Later
Pattern
So here goes… with a 4mm hook ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)
Row 1: ch3,
11tr into ring,
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch (12tr in total).
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
If you prefer working from a clean, ad-free printable pattern, the PDF version is available in my Etsy shop.
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 3tr). Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3, 3tr in same sp, ch1
*4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1*,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3, 4tr in same sp, ch1
*5tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3, 5tr in same sp, ch1, *6tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3, 5tr in same space,
ch3,
6tr in same space (corner made),
*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,
6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space* (2nd corner made) repeat * * x2 times
6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.
Row 8: ch3,
1tr in next 5sts,
*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2, 6tr in same space (corner made),
*1tr in next 5sts,
dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch
1tr in next 6sts, 6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*
repeat * * x2times
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish. Weave in ends.
Blocking:
A word on blocking: Before blocking…You’re square will be wibbly.
After blocking…Your square will lie flat and will look much better.
Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin the square to the required measurements to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry.
Joining:
I have used a simple and easy slip stitch to join these squares. I have chosen this join for two reasons. The first reason is that it is secure and does not add anything to the squares, allowing them to showcase themselves.
The second reason is it uses the least amount of yarn and also creates less ends to weave in.
So to join the squares start by placing 2 squares with the right side to the right side…ie/ the wrong side of each square will be facing outwards.
Note that this join requires you to place slip stitches in the top of the stitches along the edge of the square and you should go under both loops of each stitch.
Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in both stitches of each square, these stitches should be the corresponding stitches for each square. Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in the top square only. This is because the squares are only joined to each other at each corner and in the middle of each scallop.
Join yarn in 2nd ch of any corner space and with a 3.5mm hook slst,
in both squares slst in the next 6sts,
in top square only slst in next 6 sts (tr), slst in next st (dc), slst in next st (1st tr of scallop),
*in both squares slst in next 3 sts (2nd, 3rd &4th st of scallop),
in top square only slst in next 3sts (tr,dc,tr)*
repeat * – *
in top square only slst in next 5sts,
in both squares slst in next 6 sts, miss chst, slst into 2nd ch of corner space.
Repeat this process for each side of the square which requires joining. You will not need to cut your yarn at the end of each side joined as you can continue round by adding another square. I started joining in the middle of the blanket. You will have to join in a new corner space for some of the joins, but the process remains the same.
WHAT CROCHETERS ARE SAYING
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ “Lovely pattern”
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
More Easy Crochet Projects You May Enjoy
If you enjoyed this pattern, you may also like these beginner-friendly crochet projects designed to be relaxing, practical, and perfect for using yarn you already own.
If you enjoyed this pattern, here are a few ways to support and stay connected:
• 💛 Like this post if you found it helpful
• 💬 Leave a comment — I love hearing from you
• 📌 Pin this post to save for later using image below
• ✨Join my email list above to receive your free Crochet Project Planner and more cosy crochet inspiration
Want to stay organised with your crochet projects? You can join my email list to receive your free Crochet Project Planner and lots of cosy crochet inspiration.
I have updated this lovely pattern and have re shot the tutorial photos, so they are clearer. I have also updated this pattern on ravelry too so you can save for later if you want to.
Hope you enjoy!
As always I’m using English crochet terminology. Ch – chain Slst – slip stitch dc – double crochet tr – treble crochet
ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated. I’m using drops muskat cotton
and I’m using the colours listed below, you will see you only need a very small quantity of yarn. red – 16g old pink – 5g white – 3g vanilla yellow – 4g dark orange -1g
sky blue – 2g apple green – 3g and a 4mm crochet hook.
This lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.
So here goes… ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)
Row 1: ch3,
11tr into ring,
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch (12tr in total).
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch (12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 3tr). Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3, 3tr in same sp, ch1
*4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1*,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3, 4tr in same sp, ch1
*5tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3, 5tr in same sp, ch1, *6tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3, 5tr in same space,
ch3,
6tr in same space (corner made),
*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,
6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space* (2nd corner made) repeat * * x2 times
6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.
Row 8: ch3,
1tr in next 5sts,
*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2, 6tr in same space (corner made),
*1tr in next 5sts,
dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch
1tr in next 6sts, 6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*
repeat * * x2times
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish. Weave in ends.
A word on blocking: Before blocking…
Your square will be wibbly. After blocking…
Your square will lie flat and will look much better. Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin square to the required measurements, to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry. A very versatile yarny square.
Do not cut yarn at the end of each row. Instead, work with 3 balls bringing the selected yarn up the side of the work. This will prevent lots of ends needing to be sewn in!
Row 1: With yarn a, ch 9, 1htr in 2nd chain from hook,
1htr in each st across (8htr).
Row 1
Row 2: Join yarn b, ch2 (does not count as a st), turn. 1htr in each st across (8htr).
Row 3: Repeat row 2 with yarn c.
Juggling 3 balls will reduce the number of ends to be sewn in at the end!
Rest of rows: Repeat row 2, colour repeat – Yarn a,b,c to end. Measure against your dogs collar for length.
sew in ends…
Sew in the ends and whip stitch around dog collar as shown.
Sew a seam with a simple whip stitch.
tOP TIP:
To increase or decrease width of collar you could use a larger or smaller hook or increase or decrease the number of starting chains accordingly.
Voila…all done.
Jess likes her new collar…I hope you do too!
Enjoy the pattern and send me photo’s of your cutie sporting a yarny collar if you make one won’t you?
Thank you for your lovely comments about my latest blanket off the hook…the ‘Very V’ blanket.
It really is very simple to hook, so I thought I would put together a little tutorial, as I have not done one for a while and because I have some rare time off on my own. The tutorial can be found below. You can also check out my latest free pattern The Angelece baby blanket by clicking on this link.
So, clearly this is not an original pattern. I say that from the offset because of copyright and all of that. Let’s be honest…the humble ‘v stitch’ has been around for years. But this is my tutorial in case you want to have a crack for yourself and you have never done a ‘v stitch’ and you are a visual kinda gal or guy.
Here we go!
Final measurements: 132cms x 120cms / 52″ x47″
I used Stylecraft special dk , for it’s durability, softness and price! The colorway I used:
Lipstick x 1 ball
Meadow x1 ball
Saffron x 1 ball
Violet x 1 ball
Spice x 1 ball
Lobelia x 1 ball
Storm blue x 1 ball
Cream x 3 balls
You will also need a 4mm hook and a darning needle to weave in those ends!
Of course if you are using different yarn then you may need to use the recommended hook size for your chosen yarn; and of course you can alter the finished size by hooking more or less chains to start.
Your hooking tension (we are all different) may also mean you need more or less chains to start with.
Lets start, are you ready?
Abbreviations used are below and are English terminology.
Ch = chain stitch
Chs = chains
Tr = treble stitch (double crochet in US terminology!)
St = stitch
Slst = slip stitch
Sp = space
Pattern order I used:
Row 1: Cream
Row 2: Lobelia
Row 3: Violet
Row 4: Cream
Row 5: Storm blue
Row 6: Meadow
Row 7: Cream
Row 8: Saffron
Row 9: Spice
Row 10: Cream
Row 11: Lipstick
Row 12: Indigo
Row 13: Cream
Row 14: Violet
Row 15: Storm blue
Row 16: Cream
Row 17: Meadow
Row 18: Saffron
Row 19: Cream
Row 20: Spice
Row 21: Lipstick
Row 22: Cream
NB/ the first and last row form the edging for the top and bottom of the blanket so use the colour you wish to edge the blanket in, for row 1.
Chain 175 in cream
(This gave me about a 1m 15cm /42″ length of Ch. But any odd number of Chs will work to suit the size blanket you are wishing to hook!).
2tr in 5th ch from hook,
miss a ch, 2tr in next ch
miss a ch, 2tr in next ch
*miss a ch, 2tr in next ch*
Repeat * – * across the row.
Finishing with 1tr in last ch. Change colour. As shown below, I change colour by completing half of the process for the last tr (ie/ leave two loops on the hook). Complete last part of tr in new colour as shown.
I find this makes colour changes more secure. These ends should be tied to secure further. Top tip! leave the ends long (approx. 10cms) so that weaving in is easier.
Turn. Ch3 (counts as 1tr)
2tr in the middle of set of tr’s of previous row
Continue along the row.
finishing with 1tr in top of 3rd ch on previous row.
Change colour. Turn.
And that’s it!
Top Tip!! Weave in the ends every few rows.
Repeat rows 1-22 x5 times.
Then repeat rows 1 – 13 to finish body of blanket. And if you did not adhere to the top tip above…now is the time to weave in those ends!
I’ve gone all minimalistic for the edging because the blanket itself is simply stunning in this colourway and I did not feel like it needed something fussy to detract from its beauty.
This is what I did.
The first and last row (in cream if you have been following this colourway) form the edging for the top and bottom of this blanket. In cream / your chosen edging colour join in the space at the bottom right of your blanket as shown.
Ch 3 and slst into the top st of the first tr/ch3 of 1st row.
Ch1, 2tr in same sp
2tr in next sp (the sp is the gap between the side of the first sts of each row), 2tr in next sp.
Continue along the edge until you come to the top corner. 2tr in last sp, ch 1, 1tr in same sp.
Then slst into the top st of the first tr/ch3 of last row as shown. Fasten off. Repeat for the other side of the blanket.
Finally, in Lobelia (or your chosen colour) join in any st of edge with a slst.
Slst in each st around edge of blanket. Fasten off and weave in loose ends. And that is it, you should now have one of these to snuggle under…or reluctantly gift.
Well done if you got this far.
I really hope you have found this tutorial easy to follow. I welcome feedback, so let me know how you got on and if you want to share your picture of your finished make you can in the comment section below.