featured – Crochet blog

Free Galentines Coffee Cup Cosy…

Published on January 25, 2022January 5, 2023 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin6 Comments

It’s been a while since I gave you a free pattern and I really wanted to share something with you to celebrate Galentines Day, which is only a couple or so weeks away now. What’s more I’ve teamed up with my favourite coffee brand at Campfire Coffee, so you can grab 15% off some seriously awesome premium craft coffee to gift with your cosy or to sup yourself. Just use code

YARNYROBIN15

(campfire coffee offer entitles you to 15% off your order, one use per person and not valid on subscription orders)

I recommend the coffee bags for great coffee on the go!

This cute coffee cup cosy has a cute ribbed top brim and a chic lacy body made from clusters of v stitches, before nipping in at the base with a band of double crochet stitches and being finished with a yarny little heart.

The pattern is simple and quick to hook up and can be made from stash… just perfect for gifting and treating your best friends with or of course yourself!

You will need:

a small amount baby / sport weight yarn. I used Scheepjes stone washed in Moon Stone and Red Jasper. Pattern does share how to make cosy smaller or larger, so dk yarn will work also.

3.5mm hook,

darning needle to weave in the ends.

Abbreviations used UK terminology (American terminology in brackets)

st – stitch

slst – slip stitch

ch – chain

dc – double crochet (sc -single crochet)

htr – half treble crochet (hdc – half double crochet)

tr – treble crochet (dc – double crochet)

dtr – double treble (tr – treble crochet)

Turning ch does not count as a st unless otherwise stated

V cluster st – in same st, 2tr, ch1, 2tr (in same st 2dc, ch1, 2dc)

We will start by making the ribbed brim.

Ch5

Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook and in each st along (4dc), ch1 turn,

IN BACK LOOPS ONLY

Row 2: Dc in each st along, ch1 turn (4dc)

Rows 3 – 33: repeat row 2 (increase or decrease rows in rib to fit around your cup. Rib number of rows must however be a multiple of 3, remember the cosy will stretch) join rib ends with a slst to form a circle, ch1

Round 1: work 33 dc into top of rib, ch2 (or dc the equivalent number to rows in your rib eg/ 30 rows in rib then 30dc in row 4)

Round 2: * v cluster in 1^st st, miss 2sts,* repeat * – * to end of round, join with a slst in top of ch2 (11 v clusters)

Round 3: ch2, *v cluster in ch 1 of previous round* see picture below. Repeat * – * all around, slst in top of ch2

Round 4 – 6: repeat round 3

Round 7: ch1, dc in first st, *miss a st, dc in next st* repeat all around, slst in top of ch1 (29dc)

Round 8 – 10: ch1, dc in each st around, slst in top of ch1 (29dc) fasten off at end of round 10.

In accent colour make heart. If you would like more of a photo tutorial for this click here otherwise follow the instructions below.

Ch2

Round 1: 10dc into 2nd ch from hook, slst in to top of 1^st dc form a circle

Round 2: Ch 1, 2dc into each st around (20dc)

Round 3: Ch4 (counts as a dtr), 1dtr in the next 3 sts, 1tr in next 4sts, 1htr in next st, dc in next st, ch3, slst into same space (this creates a picot), dc in next st, 1htr in next st, 1tr in next 4 sts, 1dtr in next 4 sts, slst in to ch1 of beginning ch4.

Round 4: ch4 (counts as a dtr), 3dtr into next 3sts, (these are actually the chains from previous round) 1tr in next 3 sts, 1htr into the next st, 1dc in next 4sts, slst in picot space, ch3, slst in to same space (picot made), 1dc in next 4 sts,1htr in next st, 1tr in next 3 sts, 1dtr in next 4sts,

slst in to the cleft of the heart to finish. Fasten off leaving a long tail and sew to cosy, weaving in any loose ends.

Now, just make as many cosy’s as you have best friends and don’t forget to grab 15% off some awesome coffee to complete your gift by using code

YARNYROBIN15

over at Campfire Coffee while you can!

campfire coffee offer entitles you to 15% off your order, one use per person and not valid on subscription orders

XXXXX

Five Fabulous Free Crochet Tea Cosy Patterns…

Published on May 1, 2018December 29, 2018 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin15 Comments

There are now 5 fabulous unique and quirky tea cosies available in the Grandma Collection.

A very special and sassy collection of tea cosy crochet patterns designed by me and dedicated to the inspirational women in my life.

There is the loom flower topped ‘Mary cosy’ with beaded detail.

The ‘Mabel cosy’ is adorned with bright buttons and lace for some feminine chic.

Pretty beaded flowers bedeck the ‘Dot cosy’

The ‘Florence cosy’ will add a large dose of fun to your teapot with a fluffy oversized pompom and woven ribbons.

and the ‘Kathy cosy’ offers understated off the shoulder glamour in traditional granny stitch style.

Each patterns is free and comes with a photo tutorial. They are easy to hook and make great weekend projects; which makes them the perfect gift for tea lovers.

Which one is your favourite?

I hope you will have fun hooking these great tea cosies.

xxxxx

The Grandma Collection ©2018 and the associated cosies are designed by Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin.
I would love to see your makes and you can share on social media by using the following hashtags
#ayarnyrobin #yarnyrobin @yarnyrobin
These patterns to include the photos are the property of Nicola Florence at ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com. You can’t modify, resell or share these patterns / photo’s as your own. You can sell finished items made from it, but please mention with a link that the item is made using ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com pattern.

Sunshine Jelly Baby Blanket Free Pattern…

Published on April 17, 2018February 19, 2021 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin7 Comments

I am so thrilled to be able to introduce the Sunshine Jelly Baby blanket to you.

This delightful crochet blanket is vibrant and fun to hook and the pattern is available, complete with a photo tutorial just below. Made from Drops Muskat cotton, it measures 74cms x 74cms or 29″ x 29″…the perfect pram blanket size, of course you can make the blanket bigger by adding more squares if you wish. You can also check out my latest free baby blanket pattern…The Angelece Baby Blanket by clicking this link.
This delicious blanket is made using the Robins Nest square which I designed a few years ago and if you are a regular here you will know that I have recently updated this pattern. When I first designed this square I always intended to make a baby blanket…I guess somethings just take a while to come to pass.

As always I’m using English crochet terminology.
Ch – chain
Slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet

ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated.
I’m using drops muskat cotton.

and I’m using the colours and quantities listed below
red – 100g
old pink – 80g
white – 50g
vanilla yellow – 65g
dark orange -20g

sky blue – 35g
apple green – 50g
and a 4mm crochet hook and a 3.5mm crochet hook

Each lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.

You will need to make 16 squares to make this blanket arranged

4 x 4…

of course you can make more squares if you wish to make a larger version.

So here goes…
with a 4mmhook ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)

Row 1: ch3,

11tr into ring,

join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12tr in total).

Row 2: ch3,

1tr in same space, ch1

2tr in next st, ch1

2tr in next st, ch1, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).

Row 3: ch3,

3tr in next ch space,

repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,

join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 3tr).
Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3,
3tr in same sp, ch1

4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1,

repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3,
4tr in same sp, ch1

5tr in next ch space, ch1,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3,
5tr in same sp, ch1,
6tr in next ch space, ch1,
repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3,
5tr in same space,

ch3,

6tr in same space (corner made),

*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,

6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space*
(2nd corner made)
repeat * * x2 times

6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.

Row 8: ch3,

1tr in next 5sts,

*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2,
6tr in same space (corner made),

*1tr in next 5sts,

dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch

1tr in next 6sts,
6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*

repeat * * x2times

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish.
Weave in ends.

Blocking:

A word on blocking:
Before blocking…

Your square will be wibbly.
After blocking…

Your square will lie flat and will look much better.
Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin the square to the required measurements to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry.

Joining:

I have used a simple and easy slip stitch to join these squares. I have chosen this join for two reasons. The first reason is that it is secure and does not add anything to the squares, allowing them to showcase themselves.

The second reason is it uses the least amount of yarn and also creates less ends to weave in.

So to join the squares start by placing 2 squares with the right side to the right side…ie/ the wrong side of each square will be facing outwards.

Note that this join requires you to place slip stitches in the top of the stitches along the edge of the square and you should go under both loops of each stitch.

Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in both stitches of each square, these stitches should be the corresponding stitches for each square. Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in the top square only. This is because the squares are only joined to each other at each corner and in the middle of each scallop.

Join yarn in 2nd ch of any corner space and with a 3.5mm hook slst,

in both squares slst in the next 6sts,

in top square only slst in next 6 sts (tr), slst in next st (dc), slst in next st (1st tr of scallop),

*in both squares slst in next 3 sts (2nd, 3rd &4th st of scallop),

in top square only slst in next 3sts (tr,dc,tr)*

repeat * – *

in top square only slst in next 5sts,

in both squares slst in next 6 sts, miss chst, slst into 2nd ch of corner space.

Repeat this process for each side of the square which requires joining. You will not need to cut your yarn at the end of each side joined as you can continue round by adding another square. I started joining in the middle of the blanket. You will have to join in a new corner space for some of the joins, but the process remains the same.

I do hope you enjoy this pattern.

The Sunshine Jelly Baby Blanket ©2018 and the robins nest square ©2016 are designed by Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin.

I would love to see your makes and you can share on social media by using the following hashtags

#ayarnyrobin #yarnyrobin @yarnyrobin

This pattern to include the photos are the property of Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin. You can’t modify, resell or share this pattern. You can sell finished items made from it, but please mention that the item is made using AYARNYROBIN pattern.

Top 5 things to crochet when it's hot and number 1 is ironic!

Robins nest square pattern update:

Published on April 11, 2018January 10, 2023 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin24 Comments

I have updated this lovely pattern and have re shot the tutorial photos, so they are clearer. I have also updated this pattern on ravelry too so you can save for later if you want to.

Hope you enjoy!

As always I’m using English crochet terminology.
Ch – chain
Slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet

ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated.
I’m using drops muskat cotton

and I’m using the colours listed below, you will see you only need a very small quantity of yarn.
red – 16g
old pink – 5g
white – 3g
vanilla yellow – 4g
dark orange -1g

sky blue – 2g
apple green – 3g
and a 4mm crochet hook.

This lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.

So here goes…
ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)

Row 1: ch3,

11tr into ring,

join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12tr in total).

Row 2: ch3,

1tr in same space, ch1

2tr in next st, ch1

2tr in next st, ch1, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).

Row 3: ch3,

3tr in next ch space,

repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,

join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 3tr).
Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3,
3tr in same sp, ch1

4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1,

repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3,
4tr in same sp, ch1

5tr in next ch space, ch1,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3,
5tr in same sp, ch1,
6tr in next ch space, ch1,
repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3,
5tr in same space,

ch3,

6tr in same space (corner made),

*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,

6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space*
(2nd corner made)
repeat * * x2 times

6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.

Row 8: ch3,

1tr in next 5sts,

*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2,
6tr in same space (corner made),

*1tr in next 5sts,

dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch

1tr in next 6sts,
6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*

repeat * * x2times

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish.
Weave in ends.

A word on blocking:
Before blocking…

Your square will be wibbly.
After blocking…

Your square will lie flat and will look much better.
Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin square to the required measurements, to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry.
A very versatile yarny square.

I have also made a baby blanket using this square called the Sunshine Jelly Baby Blanket

Happy hooking.

Robins nest square ©2016 designed by Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin #yarnyrobin on Instagram.
This pattern to include the photos are the property of Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin. You can’t modify, resell or share this pattern. You can sell finished items made from it, but please mention that the item is made using AYARNYROBIN pattern.

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Free dog collar crochet pattern…

Published on July 2, 2017February 19, 2021 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin15 Comments

Isn’t she a sweetie?

I can’t believe she will be 3 years old in August….do you remember her as a tiny pup?

How time flies, and oh how dirty her collar had become, despite washing it!

So of course it seemed sensible to make her a little yarny cover for her collar and this is how I did it!

‘Such a cutie – dog collar’…free pattern:

Pattern uses English terminology (American equivalent in brackets). You will also need a dog collar.

St/ s – stitch / es

ch – chain

htr – half treble (hdc – half double crochet)

I used Paintbox dk cotton yarn

yarn a – washed teal

yarn b – lipstick pink

yarn c – bubblegum pink

Do not cut yarn at the end of each row. Instead, work with 3 balls bringing the selected yarn up the side of the work. This will prevent lots of ends needing to be sewn in!

Row 1: With yarn a, ch 9, 1htr in 2nd chain from hook,

1htr in each st across (8htr).

Row 2: Join yarn b, ch2 (does not count as a st), turn. 1htr in each st across (8htr).

Row 3: Repeat row 2 with yarn c.

Rest of rows: Repeat row 2, colour repeat – Yarn a,b,c to end. Measure against your dogs collar for length.

Sew in the ends and whip stitch around dog collar as shown.

tOP TIP:

To increase or decrease width of collar you could use a larger or smaller hook or increase or decrease the number of starting chains accordingly.

Jess likes her new collar…I hope you do too!

Enjoy the pattern and send me photo’s of your cutie sporting a yarny collar if you make one won’t you?

xxxxx

crochet v stitch blanket, rainbow blanket

Very V blanket tutorial

Published on August 30, 2016January 10, 2023 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin20 Comments

Thank you for your lovely comments about my latest blanket off the hook…the ‘Very V’ blanket.

It really is very simple to hook, so I thought I would put together a little tutorial, as I have not done one for a while and because I have some rare time off on my own. The tutorial can be found below. You can also check out my latest free pattern The Angelece baby blanket by clicking on this link.

So, clearly this is not an original pattern. I say that from the offset because of copyright and all of that. Let’s be honest…the humble ‘v stitch’ has been around for years. But this is my tutorial in case you want to have a crack for yourself and you have never done a ‘v stitch’ and you are a visual kinda gal or guy.

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Here we go!

Final measurements: 132cms x 120cms / 52″ x47″

I used Stylecraft special dk , for it’s durability, softness and price! The colorway I used:

Lipstick x 1 ball

Meadow x1 ball

Saffron x 1 ball

Violet x 1 ball

Spice x 1 ball

Lobelia x 1 ball

Storm blue x 1 ball

Cream x 3 balls

You will also need a 4mm hook and a darning needle to weave in those ends!

Of course if you are using different yarn then you may need to use the recommended hook size for your chosen yarn; and of course you can alter the finished size by hooking more or less chains to start.

Your hooking tension (we are all different) may also mean you need more or less chains to start with.

Lets start, are you ready?

Abbreviations used are below and are English terminology.

Ch = chain stitch

Chs = chains

Tr = treble stitch (double crochet in US terminology!)

St = stitch

Slst = slip stitch

Sp = space

Pattern order I used:

Row 1: Cream

Row 2: Lobelia

Row 3: Violet

Row 4: Cream

Row 5: Storm blue

Row 6: Meadow

Row 7: Cream

Row 8: Saffron

Row 9: Spice

Row 10: Cream

Row 11: Lipstick

Row 12: Indigo

Row 13: Cream

Row 14: Violet

Row 15: Storm blue

Row 16: Cream

Row 17: Meadow

Row 18: Saffron

Row 19: Cream

Row 20: Spice

Row 21: Lipstick

Row 22: Cream

NB/ the first and last row form the edging for the top and bottom of the blanket so use the colour you wish to edge the blanket in, for row 1.

Chain 175 in cream

(This gave me about a 1m 15cm /42″ length of Ch. But any odd number of Chs will work to suit the size blanket you are wishing to hook!).

2tr in 5th ch from hook,

miss a ch, 2tr in next ch

miss a ch, 2tr in next ch

miss a ch, 2tr in next ch

Repeat * – * across the row.

Finishing with 1tr in last ch. Change colour. As shown below, I change colour by completing half of the process for the last tr (ie/ leave two loops on the hook). Complete last part of tr in new colour as shown.

I find this makes colour changes more secure. These ends should be tied to secure further. Top tip! leave the ends long (approx. 10cms) so that weaving in is easier.

Turn. Ch3 (counts as 1tr)

2tr in the middle of set of tr’s of previous row

Continue along the row.

finishing with 1tr in top of 3rd ch on previous row.

Change colour. Turn.

And that’s it!

Top Tip!! Weave in the ends every few rows.

Repeat rows 1-22 x5 times.

Then repeat rows 1 – 13 to finish body of blanket. And if you did not adhere to the top tip above…now is the time to weave in those ends!

InstagramCapture_a30fea23-613a-4f2f-8788-4163b29b22dd

I’ve gone all minimalistic for the edging because the blanket itself is simply stunning in this colourway and I did not feel like it needed something fussy to detract from its beauty.

This is what I did.

The first and last row (in cream if you have been following this colourway) form the edging for the top and bottom of this blanket. In cream / your chosen edging colour join in the space at the bottom right of your blanket as shown.

Ch 3 and slst into the top st of the first tr/ch3 of 1st row.

Ch1, 2tr in same sp

2tr in next sp (the sp is the gap between the side of the first sts of each row), 2tr in next sp.

Continue along the edge until you come to the top corner. 2tr in last sp, ch 1, 1tr in same sp.

Then slst into the top st of the first tr/ch3 of last row as shown. Fasten off. Repeat for the other side of the blanket.

Finally, in Lobelia (or your chosen colour) join in any st of edge with a slst.

Slst in each st around edge of blanket. Fasten off and weave in loose ends. And that is it, you should now have one of these to snuggle under…or reluctantly gift.

Well done if you got this far.

I really hope you have found this tutorial easy to follow. I welcome feedback, so let me know how you got on and if you want to share your picture of your finished make you can in the comment section below.

Share this:

Like this:

There are now 5 fabulous unique and quirky tea cosies available in the Grandma Collection.

A very special and sassy collection of tea cosy crochet patterns designed by me and dedicated to the inspirational women in my life.

There is the loom flower topped ‘Mary cosy’ with beaded detail.

The ‘Mabel cosy’ is adorned with bright buttons and lace for some feminine chic.

Pretty beaded flowers bedeck the ‘Dot cosy’

The ‘Florence cosy’ will add a large dose of fun to your teapot with a fluffy oversized pompom and woven ribbons.

and the ‘Kathy cosy’ offers understated off the shoulder glamour in traditional granny stitch style.

Each patterns is free and comes with a photo tutorial. They are easy to hook and make great weekend projects; which makes them the perfect gift for tea lovers.

Which one is your favourite?

I hope you will have fun hooking these great tea cosies.

xxxxx

Share this:

Like this:

I am so thrilled to be able to introduce the Sunshine Jelly Baby blanket to you.

As always I’m using English crochet terminology. Ch – chain Slst – slip stitch dc – double crochet tr – treble crochet

ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated. I’m using drops muskat cotton.

and I’m using the colours and quantities listed below red – 100g old pink – 80g white – 50g vanilla yellow – 65g dark orange -20g

sky blue – 35g apple green – 50g and a 4mm crochet hook and a 3.5mm crochet hook

Each lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.

You will need to make 16 squares to make this blanket arranged

4 x 4…

of course you can make more squares if you wish to make a larger version.

So here goes… with a 4mmhook ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)

Row 1: ch3,

11tr into ring,

join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch (12tr in total).

Row 2: ch3,

1tr in same space, ch1

2tr in next st, ch1

*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch (12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).

Row 3: ch3,

*3tr in next ch space*,

repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,

join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 3tr). Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3, 3tr in same sp, ch1

*4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1*,

repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3, 4tr in same sp, ch1

*5tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3, 5tr in same sp, ch1, *6tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3, 5tr in same space,

ch3,

6tr in same space (corner made),

*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,

6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space* (2nd corner made) repeat * * x2 times

6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.

1tr in next 5sts,

*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2, 6tr in same space (corner made),

*1tr in next 5sts,

dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch

1tr in next 6sts, 6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*

repeat * * x2times

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish. Weave in ends.

Blocking:

A word on blocking: Before blocking…

Your square will be wibbly. After blocking…

Joining:

I have used a simple and easy slip stitch to join these squares. I have chosen this join for two reasons. The first reason is that it is secure and does not add anything to the squares, allowing them to showcase themselves.

The second reason is it uses the least amount of yarn and also creates less ends to weave in.

So to join the squares start by placing 2 squares with the right side to the right side…ie/ the wrong side of each square will be facing outwards.

Note that this join requires you to place slip stitches in the top of the stitches along the edge of the square and you should go under both loops of each stitch.

Join yarn in 2nd ch of any corner space and with a 3.5mm hook slst,

in both squares slst in the next 6sts,

in top square only slst in next 6 sts (tr), slst in next st (dc), slst in next st (1st tr of scallop),

*in both squares slst in next 3 sts (2nd, 3rd &4th st of scallop),

in top square only slst in next 3sts (tr,dc,tr)*

repeat * – *

in top square only slst in next 5sts,

in both squares slst in next 6 sts, miss chst, slst into 2nd ch of corner space.

I do hope you enjoy this pattern.

The Sunshine Jelly Baby Blanket ©2018 and the robins nest square ©2016 are designed by Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin.

I would love to see your makes and you can share on social media by using the following hashtags

#ayarnyrobin #yarnyrobin @yarnyrobin

This pattern to include the photos are the property of Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin. You can’t modify, resell or share this pattern. You can sell finished items made from it, but please mention that the item is made using AYARNYROBIN pattern.

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I have updated this lovely pattern and have re shot the tutorial photos, so they are clearer. I have also updated this pattern on ravelry too so you can save for later if you want to.

Hope you enjoy!

As always I’m using English crochet terminology.
Ch – chain
Slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet

ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated.
I’m using drops muskat cotton.

and I’m using the colours and quantities listed below
red – 100g
old pink – 80g
white – 50g
vanilla yellow – 65g
dark orange -20g

sky blue – 35g
apple green – 50g
and a 4mm crochet hook and a 3.5mm crochet hook

So here goes…
with a 4mmhook ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)

join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12tr in total).

2tr in next st, ch1, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).

3tr in next ch space,

join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 3tr).
Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3,
3tr in same sp, ch1

4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1,

repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3,
4tr in same sp, ch1

5tr in next ch space, ch1,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3,
5tr in same sp, ch1,
6tr in next ch space, ch1,
repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3,
5tr in same space,

6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space*
(2nd corner made)
repeat * * x2 times

*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2,
6tr in same space (corner made),

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch

1tr in next 6sts,
6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish.
Weave in ends.

A word on blocking:
Before blocking…

Your square will be wibbly.
After blocking…

As always I’m using English crochet terminology.
Ch – chain
Slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet

ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated.
I’m using drops muskat cotton

and I’m using the colours listed below, you will see you only need a very small quantity of yarn.
red – 16g
old pink – 5g
white – 3g
vanilla yellow – 4g
dark orange -1g

sky blue – 2g
apple green – 3g
and a 4mm crochet hook.

So here goes…
ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)

join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12tr in total).

2tr in next st, ch1, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).

3tr in next ch space,

join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 3tr).
Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3,
3tr in same sp, ch1

4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1,

repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3,
4tr in same sp, ch1

5tr in next ch space, ch1,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3,
5tr in same sp, ch1,
6tr in next ch space, ch1,
repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)

Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3,
5tr in same space,

6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space*
(2nd corner made)
repeat * * x2 times

*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2,
6tr in same space (corner made),

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch

1tr in next 6sts,
6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*

1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch,
slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish.
Weave in ends.

A word on blocking:
Before blocking…

Your square will be wibbly.
After blocking…