I haven’t got much spare time at the moment, but I wanted to give you all a little Christmas present to say thank you for stopping by and supporting me over the last year…I really appreciate every one of you that reads my posts, likes my posts or leaves me a comment, so I thought a little free Christmas crochet pattern would be the perfect gift for you.
Enjoy…and Happy Christmas to you from me
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One pattern, two great designs. Are you Team Santa or Team Elf?
This is my latest pattern just in time for Christmas. The pattern is available in sizes 0 – 3 months right through to large adult, so you can make one for all the family!
Materials you will need:
Aran / worsted weight yarn – pattern recommends Stylecraft special, but any aran/ worsted yarn may be used
Dk weight yarn for brim held double strand or aran / worsted weight yarn may be used as a substitute.
(5.0mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Tape measure
stitch marker (optional)
Scissors
Cardboard circles for pompoms or pompom maker
This crochet pattern is written using UK crochet terminology. Conversion of stitches into US terminology are provided in the pattern notes. Pattern requires knowledge of the following stitches – UK – ch, dc. tr, fptr and bptr.
Use Code: HAPPY15 for discount.
It’s been a little while since I dropped by, but I have been busy pattern writing. I hope you are all well and being creative; and if you’re not then I’m sending you lots of love.
This beautiful Baby Bear Beanie, was actually one of the first hat patterns I ever scribbled down and I have made lots over the last few years. So it feels right that it is finally written up properly!
This pattern is a top down construction and has instructions for 2 different ways to finish the brim. Option 1 – features a ‘knit look’ ribbed crochet brim which is not bulky, unlike most crochet hats. I have provided a link within the pattern to a video tutorial on how to crochet the brim.
Option 2 is a chunky ribbed brim which uses front treble and back treble post stitches.
This beautiful pattern is quick to hook up, so just perfect if you need to whip one up quickly and it comes in sizes
Newborn
0 – 3 months
3 – 6 months
6 – 12 months
1 – 3 years
3 – 5 years
Materials you will need:
Aran / worsted weight yarn – pattern recommends Stylecraft special, but any aran/ worsted acryllic yarn may be used
(5.0mm) crochet hook or hook needed to acquire correct gauge
Tapestry needle
Tape measure
Pins
stitch marker (optional)
A perfect little pattern to keep precious heads warm this Autumn.
The hot Summer weather has me out and about and in the garden which isn’t leaving me a lot of crochet time. So I have been looking for small crochet wins to satisfy my creativity and to gain a sense of achievement with the little time I have. I have found myself creating delicious treats to add to my previous trio of cupcakes and have made these perfect macarons in beautiful pastel shades.
I love the idea of making play food sets and I would have loved these as a little girl; and now with two beautiful neice in my life I have just the right excuse to make play food sets for their play kitchens (albeit I am prepping for a couple of years ahead!).
These macarons are quick and easy to make. With play food sets in mind I treated myself to a Drops Safran cotton yarn pack and am giddy with the colours and have peace of mind that the cotton is Oeko Tex standard 100 approved; which means the cotton has been certified to be free of harmful chemicals and is safe for human use, as well as being verified as both safe and non-irritating to human skin. For more of my patterns using this yarn take a look at my
and my free patterns
Spring bunny lovey and crochet teethers
which means I am getting through my Drops Safran stash quite quickly and making beautiful items I can gift.
This pattern is written using English crochet terminology but has US terminology in brackets within the stitch abbreviation section of the pattern. The macarons are made in continuous rounds or spirals. A method commonly used in amigurumi and means there are no visible seams. The pattern is suitable for beginners with some knowledge of basic stitches and includes 20 step by step pictures to assist you.
Let me know what you think or if you can recommend any good crochet food patterns I can take a look at!
Use code HAPPY10 for 10% off
PEONY BIB SET
USE CODE HAPPY10 for 10% off.
This beautiful Peony Bib set is both pretty and practical as well as perfect for a
special occasion. Made from 100% cotton, these bibs are absorbent making them
ideal for catching dribble.
The patterns are suitable for a beginner with some experience of basic crochet
stitches and each bib uses less than 50g of cotton… just perfect for gifting a special
little someone!
I have really enjoyed putting this beautiful Peony Bib set together and I hope that you love it just as much as me. The pattern suggests using Drops Safran 100% Cotton yarn and if you have been following my recent posts you will know this is my go to cotton yarn. The cotton makes these bibs super absorbent, so just perfect for dribbling, teething babies. Not only that, but it is also Oeko Tex standard 100 approved; which means the cotton has been certified to be free of harmful chemicals and is safe for human use, as well as being verified as both safe and non irritating to human skin.
The handy Bib printable were made for me by MJHARRISPRINTABLES. I highly recommend this shop for all of your crochet gifts, if you want to label them professionally.
This bib set would make a great baby shower gift, coupled with my free Teething ring pattern…don’t you think? So if you fancy 10% off this pattern use code Happy10… but hurry because that offer won’t be around for long!
This post contains affiliate links
Today I’m going to share with you my amazingly simple pattern for making Yarny Crochet Teething Rings. The pattern is suitable for a beginner and they literally take 15 minutes to make. Teethers make cute baby shower gifts on there own or would make an ideal accessory set when paired with my Spring Bunny Lovey. What’s more they are 100% natural and so totally safe for baby to chew on. They are also really useful first toys to help develop Baby’s hand eye coordination and grasp.
I have opted to use Drops Safran 100% cotton as it is not only affordable, but it has a great colour pallete too. It was also really important to me that I chose a cotton that was Oeko Tex standard 100 approved; which means the cotton has been certified to be free of harmful chemicals and is safe for human use, as well as being verified as both safe and non-irritating to human skin.
This pattern including all photos are the property of Nicola Florence at ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com. Please do not modify, resell, publish in part or in full, or share this pattern or photo’s as your own. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, (subject to toy making regulations) I hope it becomes a hot item for you; but please credit, with a link, that the item is made using @yarnyrobin pattern / #petalteethingring / #ridgedteethingring
3.0mm hook
Scissors
less than 10g of Drops Safran 100% cotton in colour of choice
This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology and the stitch abbreviations can be found below. I have included US terminology in brackets if you wish to convert.
Repeats are marked by asterisks *.
Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch- chain / chain (US) St – stitch / stitch (US)
Slst – slip stitch / slip stitch (US) Dtr – Double treble / treble crochet (US)
Dc – double crochet / single crochet (US) BLO – back loop only
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
DTr: Yarn over hook twice, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 4 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
BLO: Work stitch as stated, but in back loop of stitch only.
Begin by securing yarn around the teething ring with a slst (this does not count as a st)
28dc around teething ring
ch1 and turn,
miss a st, *9dtr in next st, miss 2 sts, slst into next st, miss 2 sts* repeat * – * 3 more times, 9dtr in next st, miss a st, slst into last st.
Because you are cramming 9dtr into one st, it is easy to miscount the 2 missed sts immediately after; as the 1st missed st tends to hide under the petal made, so if your stitch count isn’t working for you check this first!
Fasten off and weave in loose ends.
The teething rings can be washed in the washing machine, or hand washed as per preference.
Wet the crochet petals with cold water and place the teether in the freezer, for an extra boost of teething comfort
chain stitches do not count as a stitch throughout pattern
Ch11, dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch along, ch1 turn (10dc)
For ridged teether work remainder of pattern in back loops only -BLO. For a smooth crochet look work sts as normal. NB/ pictures below are not worked in back loop so do not show ridged effect. See picture at the top of this post for ridged effect.
Row 2 – 21: dc in each st along, ch1, turn
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sew long sides of rectangle together around the teething ring, using a whip st. Fasten off and weave in ends.
I really hope you have enjoyed this pattern, let me know by leaving me a comment or a like…that always makes me happy. Come and say Hi on Instagram and give me a follow @yarnyrobin as I often share patterns or have giveaways.
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With Her Majesty’s Platinum Jubilee just around the corner I thought I’d share my progress on my Jubilee decorations and share the pattern with you. After all what good is a garden party or afternoon tea without a bit of bunting?
To make the bunting flags please see my previous post just here They are simple to make and the lace trim gives a pretty, vintage vibe. What’s more if you tie your embellishments to the flags rather than sew them on, the bunting can be recycled and dressed up again for the next occasion / holiday season in your calendar…clever eh!
I wanted my Jubilee bunting to be traditional in colour , so of course it had to be red, white and blue, but I wanted it to look pretty and almost understated, so you won’t find any navy or lipstick red here! instead I chose a more muted red tone and coupled it with a mid blue. I also wanted to incorporate the Union Jack and found these gorgeous little buttons, which again are more subtle in tone.
Yarn: Drops Saffran in cherry and denim blue
Buttons: Buttonboxdevon
This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology and the stitch abbreviations can be found below. I have included US terminology in brackets if you wish to convert.
Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch- chain / chain (US) St – stitch / stitch (US)
Slst – slip stitch / slip stitch (US) Tr – treble / double crochet (US)
Dc – double crochet / single crochet (US)
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Tr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
In cherry
Leave a long tail, ch 50
Tr in 2nd ch from hook, tr in each ch along, dc in last ch
Ch3, turn
2tr in same space, 3tr in each st a long, dc in last st. Fasten off leaving a long tail
In denim blue
Leave a long tail, ch 33
Tr in 2nd ch from hook, tr in each ch along, dc in last ch
Ch3, turn
2tr in same space, 3tr in each st a long, dc in last st. Fasten off leaving a long tail
Spiral flower in an anti-clockwise direction with one long tail at the front of the rose and one long tail at the back of the rose. With a darning needle take the front tail through to the back of the rose to secure centre petal. Now make several passes of the needle at back of the rose making sure you catch all the layers of the rose. With other tail, thread darning needle and make several more passes at the back of the rose. Tie tails together in a knot to secure. Attach to bunting by passing both tails with a darning needle through to back of flag and tie neatly so tails tuck neatly behind flag and can be easily removed when you wish to re-dress your bunting. Add buttons to string in between flags with hot glue / glue gun.
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Hey lovely people, I wanted to share this crochet pattern for this beautiful, understated bunting, which has a distinct vintage vibe. I’ve called it ‘dress me up bunting’ because the whole idea behind this bunting is that you can dress it up for different celebrations with add-on decorations and then re-dress it all over again…think crochet flowers, faux flowers, ribbons, buttons etc.
I didn’t want to have to make bunting over and over again to fit themes and colour schemes, so I thought I’d make some pretty bunting flags which look great on their own and then I can dress the flags accordingly and temporarily, making them just about as versatile as they can be.
I think this bunting looks so pretty and I have had fun trying it out around the nest. I have strung them for now on some hessian garden twine by simply pulling the twine through a few stitches at the back of each flag.
I really wanted to share the pattern with you, so keep reading if you are itching to make your own. The pattern is quick to make and would make a lovely gift for a crafty friend. The pattern is simple and ideal for beginners, using half treble crochet (UK) or half double crochet (US) and some decrease stitches.
I already have plans to dress this bunting for the Queens Platinum Jubilee celebrations which are just a few weeks away now…so watch this space as I am currently hooking some Jubilee roses.
You will need to gather some simple supplies if you want to hook up your own ‘dress me up bunting’.
I used Drops Safran cotton yarn in off white. I made 7 flags from 50g and by keeping short tails.
A 3.5mm hook, scissors and darning needle
I chose a simple white lace with a depth of 4cms. I used 22cms per flag, so just over a 1m 50cms for the 7 flags I made.
I also used a glue gun to attach the lace, but you could also sew this on if you prefer.
You will also need some ribbon or twine to string your flags with.
Ch: chain st
st: stitch
Htr: Yarn over before inserting hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, insert hook, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Htr-dec: Yarn over before inserting hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, insert hook, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull through so there are 4 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
The pattern is worked in rows and you will need to turn your work at the end of each row. Turning ch1 does not count as a st
Ch 31
R1: htr in 2nd ch from hook, htr in each ch along, ch1 turn (30htr)
R2 – 4: htr in each st along, ch1 turn (30htr)
R5: htr-dec, htr in next 26sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (28htr)
R6: htr-dec, htr in next 24sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (26htr)
R7: htr-dec, htr in next 22sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (24htr)
R8: htr-dec, htr in next 20sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (22htr)
R9: htr-dec, htr in next 18sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (20htr)
R10: htr-dec, htr in next 16sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (18htr)
R11: htr-dec, htr in next 14sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (16htr)
R12: htr-dec, htr in next 12sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (14htr)
R13: htr-dec, htr in next 10sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (12htr)
R14: htr-dec, htr in next 8sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (10htr)
R15: htr-dec, htr in next 6sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (8htr)
R16: htr-dec, htr in next 4sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (6htr)
R17: htr-dec, htr in next 2sts, htr-dec, ch1 turn (4htr)
R18: htr-dec, htr-dec, ch1 turn (2htr)
R19: htr-dec, (1htr) fasten off and weave in ends.
Use glue gun to attach lace across the top of the flag, making sure to secure a small overlap of lace at the back of the flag to give a neat edge. Alternatively, you could sew the lace in place with a needle and thread.
Make as many flags as you desire and simply string with ribbon or twine by hooking it through a few stitches at the back of the flag, behind the lace.
To make the flags hang nicely I hooked the twine through at 3 points on each flag, on the left, the right and in the centre.
You can now dress your bunting up with whatever you choose. In order to dress this bunting up and down attach any accessories so that they can easily be removed, that way your bunting can be dressed and re-dressed to your hearts content.
Fancy hooking up your own Spring Bunny Lovey, well you can…because I’m going to share my pattern with you and just in time for Easter. You will find all the pattern details in this post or you can purchase an ad-free copy for less than a cuppa just here.
This cute Spring bunny is sure to become baby’s best friend. Using Oeko Tex standard 100 approved 100% cotton in a 4ply; this lovey is soft to snuggle and is perfectly safe to chew on.
The pattern is simple and quick to hook up and uses only 50g of cotton plus a tiny amount for the bow… just perfect for gifting a special little someone! I made this in an afternoon so it really is a quick make.
With her rosy cheeks and little criss cross nose, this little bunny has the sweetest face and floppy ears. The granny square blanket adds a vintage vibe coupled with it’s neutral tones.
I have opted to use Drops Safran 100% cotton as it is not only affordable, but it has a great colour pallete too. It was also really important to me that I chose a cotton that was Oeko Tex standard 100 approved; which means the cotton has been certified to be free of harmful chemicals and is safe for human use, as well as being verified as both safe and non-irritating to human skin. As this bunny lovey was inspired by a very precious little human, I wanted to be sure there were no hidden nasties.
This pattern including all photos are the property of Nicola Florence at ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com. Please do not modify, resell, publish in part or in full, or share this pattern or photo’s as your own. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, (subject to toy making regulations) I hope it becomes a hot item for you; but please credit, with a link, that the item is made using @yarnyrobin pattern / #springbunnylovey
3mm hook or hook size to meet gauge
Scissors
2 pins
Darning needle & sewing needle
stitch marker – optional
Polyester toy filling (fire safety standard / EN71)
Blusher
50g of Drops Safran 100% cotton colour 21 (camel)
2g of Drops Safran 100% cotton colour 01 (desert rose pink)
Small amount of black embroidery floss
This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology and the stitch abbreviations can be found below. I have included US terminology in brackets if you wish to convert.
The head, arms and ears are made in continuous rounds or spirals. It is a method commonly used in amigurumi and means there will be no visible seams. Therefore, when you start a new round just work it into the next st. I recommend marking the first st of each round with a st marker.
Starting chains in the blanket section counts as a stitch throughout the pattern unless otherwise stated. Repeats are marked by asterisks *.
Stitch Abbreviations:
Ch- chain / chain (US) St – stitch / stitch (US)
Slst – slip stitch / slip stitch (US) Tr – treble / double crochet (US)
Dc – double crochet / single crochet (US) BLO – back loop only
Htr – half treble / half double (US)
Dc2tog – decrease / Sc2tog – decrease (US)
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Tr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Htr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
BLO: Work stitch as stated, but in back loop of stitch only.
Dc2tog – decrease st worked over 2 stitches: insert hook under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Gauge:
Please check your gauge to obtain stated size and to ensure yarn quantities stated are achieved. If your swatch is too small, try going up a hook size to obtain gauge. If your swatch size is too big try going down a hook size to obtain gauge. Of course, gauge isn’t imperative as this is not a garment that is worn. However, if you do not check your gauge, you may need more yarn than stated and your lovey may turn out smaller or larger than stated.
Gauge swatch 4” x4” / 10cms x10cms – 20 rows of 17dc / (17sc)
Lovey approx. size 10” x 10” / 25cms x 25cms
Head
Ch2
Round 1: 6dc into 2nd ch from hook (6dc / 6sc )
Round 2: 2dc in next st and in each st around (12dc / 12sc )
Round 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 4: *2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts* repeat around (24dc / 24sc )
Round 5: * 2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts * repeat around (30dc / 30sc )
Round 6: *2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts* repeat around (36dc / 36sc )
Round 7: *2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts* repeat around (42dc / 42sc )
Round 8: *2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts* repeat around (48dc / 48sc )
Round 9 – 13: dc in each st around (48dc / 48sc )
Round 14: *dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts* repeat around (42dc / 42sc)
Round 15: *dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts* repeat around (36dc / 36sc )
Round 16: *dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts* repeat around (30dc / 30sc )
Round 17: *dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts* repeat around (24dc / 24sc )
Round 18: *dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Now tightly stuff head with safety toy filling
In Back Loops Only (BLO)
Round 19: *dc2tog, dc in next st* repeat around (12dc / 12sc )
Fasten off leaving a long tail. You will use this to sew the head to the blanket.
How to embroider the face
Take a long length of embroider floss and split off 3 strands by holding them and pulling down the whole length. When making your stitches do not pull them to tight, a gentle tension is all that is needed. I embroidered the face with one long length of floss, to do this pull your stitches through slowly, to prevent tangling and /or knotting.
Nose:
Start by threading your sewing needle and inserting it through the bottom of the head and leaving a small tail visible hanging from the stuffing. Exit needle on row 6 from the bottom of the head, insert needle diagonally into row 8. I made my diagonal stitch over 3 dc’s width. Exit needle in row 6 under previous entry point and insert at opposite diagonal. Do not fasten off move straight onto the eyes.
Eyes:
Insert pin to mark where the eye will start, above and inline with the outside of the nose on the right side (facing you) with the floss still on your needle exit in st marked by your needle on row 11, insert needle in a gentle diagonal on row below, exit needle horizontally on same row about 2sts across, insert needle at point of last entry (back stitch), exit needle in a gentle diagonal on outside edge of eye on row above the horizontal st just made, exit needle below lid a ¼ of the way from the outside of eye and insert needle in a straight line to eye lid to make first eyelash. Exit needle below outside edge of lid at a slight angle and insert needle at outside edge of eye lid to make final eye lash. Do not fasten off.
Exit needle at point for second eye and repeat process. Finish by bringing floss through the bottom of the head and tie with starting tail and trim ends.
Ch2
Round 1: 6dc into 2nd ch from hook, (6dc / 6sc )
Round 2: 2dc in each st around. (12dc / 12sc )
Round3: *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 4 – 7: dc in each st around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 8: dc2tog, dc in next 14sts, dc2tog, (16dc / 16sc )
Round 9: dc2tog, dc in next 12sts, dc2tog (14htr / 14sc )
Round 10: dc2tog, dc in next 10sts, dc2tog (12dc / 12sc )
Rounds 11 – 14: dc in each st around (12dc / 12sc )
Round 15: dc2tog all around (6dc / 6sc ) Fasten off and leave along tail, now with a darning needle attach the ears securely to the head by sewing along both the outer side and under side of the ear, catching under the stitches of the head and the ear. You may find it helpful to pin the ears into position before you sew them on. This helps you to decide on a good position and will prevent lopsided ears! Once competed weave in any loose ends.
Bow
With pink cotton
Ch 6
Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch along, turn (5dc / 5sc )
Row 2 – 10: dc in each st along, turn (5dc / 5sc )
Fasten off and weave in ends. Take long piece of cotton and tie a knot in the middle of bow, snipping short the shorter tail. Now wrap long tail several times around the middle of the bow taking care to cover the tail you snipped short. To finish take the cotton wrapped around the bow and thread needle, finish by taking needle through the wrapped cotton on the backside and knot, leaving a long tail. Now with a darning needle, securely sew bow to the head and weave in any loose ends.
Now with a small amount of blusher on a brush add two little rosy cheeks to the face.
Arms (Make 2)
Ch2
Round 1: 7dc into 2nd ch from hook, (7dc / 7sc )
Round 2 – 23: dc in each st around (7dc / 7sc )
Fasten off leaving a long tail. With a darning needle attach to underside of head securely by sewing along both the outer side and under side of the arm, catching under the stitches of the head and the arm. You may find it helpful to pin the arms into position before you sew them on. Finish by sewing criss cross the bottom of head to close the gap.
Blanket
Ch 6, slst to 1st ch to form a ring
Round 1: Ch3 (counts as tr) 15tr into ring, join with a slst to top of ch3 (16tr / 16dc )
Round 2: ch3 (counts as a tr) tr in same space, ch1, 2tr in same space, *ch1, miss a st, 2tr in next st, ch1, miss a stitch, (2tr in next st, ch1, 2tr in same space)* repeat * – * twice, ch1, miss a st, 2tr in next st, ch1, slst to top of ch3, slst to corner space
Round 3: ch3 (counts as a tr) tr in same space, ch1, 2tr in same space, *ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, (2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in same space)* repeat * – * twice, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, slst to top of ch3, slst to corner space
Rounds 4 – 8: continue rounds as round 3, you will have an extra set of 2tr, ch1 along each side in each row.
Ie/ continue with corner spaces = 2tr, ch1, 2tr, ch1
Sides = 2tr, ch1
Rounds 9 – 14: Continue as rounds 4 – 8 but add 2ch in corner spaces
Ie/ continue with corner spaces = 2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch1
Sides = 2tr, ch1
Round 15: ch2 (counts as htr), htr in same space, ch2, 2htr in same space, htr in each st and in each space along edge
Corner space = 2htr, ch2, 2htr
Fasten off and weave in ends
Now with the long tail from the head, thread darning needle and position head in centre of blanket with the face pointing to a corner of the blanket (on the diagonal) sew securely all around utilising the front loops from round 19 of head. You will also need to sew blanket to the arms also. I like to sew around the head twice just for added security.
I hope you enjoy making this Spring bunny lovey. I would love to see your makes; the easiest way to do this is to share them on your social media by tagging me @yarnyrobin and using #springbunnylovey it will honestly make me do a happy dance and I would love to share them too!
You can also follow me on Instagram at @yarnyrobin and on facebook as Baby_yarnyrobin for discounts and latest updates.
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The Waiting for You baby blanket crochet pattern is now available in my Etsy store and comes in 2 sizes. You can purchase as a bundle and get the blanket and bonnet pattern for a discounted price, or you can buy them separately if you prefer. I have added a little bonus pattern for free too, which will be available to download with your purchase.
Although the bonnet pattern is written for aran weight yarn and the blanket suggests DK weight yarn, I suggest you hold two strands of DK together when making the bonnet if you want the blanket and bonnet made in the same yarn. That is what I did for the one in the picture above and it worked really well.
I would love to see your makes so don’t forget to tag me on your social media @yarnyrobin or use the #waitingforyoublanket
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