Crochet bunny ears are one of the sweetest little details you can add to handmade baby gifts, toys, and accessories. Whether you love soft floppy ears or more upright styles, they’re surprisingly simple to create once you understand how the shaping works.
In this beginner-friendly guide, I’ll walk you through the basic techniques used to make bunny ears, including how they’re shaped, how to keep them neat and soft, and how to attach them securely to your projects.
Most bunny ears are created using very simple shaping techniques.
The width of the ear is formed by working a small foundation row or round, then adding stitches evenly to build the shape.
As you move towards the tip of the ear, decreases are used to gently taper the ear so it looks natural rather than square.
Because the shaping is gradual, bunny ears are actually a lovely beginner-friendly project to practise increases and decreases.
DIFFERENT BUNNY EAR STYLES (FLOPPY VS UPRIGHT)
There are a few different styles of crochet ears, and the look you choose depends on the project you’re making.
Floppy ears are the most popular for baby items. They’re soft, flexible, and have that classic gentle bunny look. These are often worked in rounds with simple shaping at the tip.
Upright ears are firmer and hold their shape more strongly. These usually use tighter stitches or slightly smaller hooks to create structure and are often worked in rows.
Folded or attached ears are commonly used for bonnets and hats. These are designed to sit neatly against the fabric rather than sticking out. Folded ears are often created by beginning with just a few stitches at the base and increasing gradually until you reach the widest part of the ear. From there, decreases are used to taper the shape smoothly towards the tip.
Once you understand how shaping works, you can easily adapt the style to suit different projects.
BEST YARN FOR SOFT BUNNY EARS
The type of yarn you choose makes a big difference to how your bunny ears look and feel.
Cotton yarn is a popular choice because it holds its shape well and gives a neat, defined finish. It’s especially good for bonnets, loveys and structured designs.
Chenille or plush yarn creates beautifully soft, cuddly ears that are perfect for plushies and toys.
Acrylic yarn sits somewhere in between, offering good structure while still feeling gentle.
If you want ears to drape softly, choose a slightly larger hook size. For firmer ears, use a smaller hook for tighter stitches.
HOW TO STOP BUNNY EARS CURLING
One of the most common issues beginners notice is that bunny ears can sometimes curl or twist slightly.
This usually happens when stitches are worked very tightly, or when the hook size is too small for the yarn.
Using a hook that matches your yarn weight and maintaining an even tension will help ears lie smoothly.
If needed, very light blocking can also help the ears relax into a softer shape.
In most cases, though, gentle shaping with your hands after finishing is enough to create a lovely natural drape.
HOW TO ATTACH CROCHET BUNNY EARS
Attaching bunny ears securely is an important final step, especially for baby items that need to be durable.
Ears are usually sewn on using a yarn needle, working through several stitches at the base to keep them firmly in place. Ensuring you catch stitches from the ear as well as the item you are attaching the ears to.
I strongly recommend pinning the ears in to position first so you can check they’re evenly spaced before stitching.
For bonnets, ears are often attached slightly forward from the centre so they frame the face nicely.
Taking a little time with placement makes a big difference to the finished look.
Would you like to crochet your own Spring Bunny Lovey, well you can…because I’m going to share my free pattern with you and just in time for Easter. You will find the full pattern details in this post
The pattern is simple and quick to hook up. It uses only 50g of cotton plus a tiny amount for the bow. This is just perfect for gifting a special little someone! I made this in an afternoon so it really is a quick make.
With her rosy cheeks and little criss cross nose, this little bunny has the sweetest face and floppy ears. The granny square blanket adds a vintage vibe coupled with it’s neutral tones.
Prefer a printable, ad-free version?I’ve created a tidy PDF version of this Bunny Lovey Pattern with BOTH UK and US crochet terms included. This way, you can follow the version you prefer with no conversions. Perfect if you like to print your patterns or follow them offline.
⭐ Easy to print and follow anywhere ⭐ No ads – just the pattern ⭐ UK or US crochet terms included ⭐ Instant download
This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting ayarnyrobin — every little bit helps keep the free patterns coming. for more information please see our privacy policy
A Word On Yarn Choice
I have opted to use Drops Safran 100% cotton as it is not only affordable, but it has a great colour palette too. It was also really important to me that I chose a cotton that was Oeko Tex standard 100 approved. This means the cotton has been certified to be free of harmful chemicals. It is safe for human use. Moreover, it has been verified as both safe and non-irritating to human skin. As this bunny lovey was inspired by a very precious little human, I wanted to be sure there were no hidden nasties.
Pattern Protocols
This pattern including all photos are the property of Nicola Florence at ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com. Please do not modify, resell, publish in part or in full, or share this pattern or photo’s as your own. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, (subject to toy making regulations) I hope it becomes a hot item for you; but please credit, with a link, that the item is made using @yarnyrobin pattern /
2g of Drops Safran 100% cotton colour 01 (desert rose pink)
pattern Notes
This pattern is written using UK crochet terminology and the stitch abbreviations can be found below. I have included US terminology in brackets if you wish to convert.
The head, arms and ears are made in continuous rounds or spirals. It is a method commonly used in amigurumi and means there will be no visible seams. Therefore, when you start a new round just work it into the next st. I recommend marking the first st of each round with a st marker.
Starting chains in the blanket section counts as a stitch throughout the pattern unless otherwise stated. Repeats are marked by asterisks *.
Dc – double crochet / single crochet (US) BLO – back loop only
Htr – half treble / half double (US)
Dc2tog – decrease / Sc2tog – decrease (US)
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Tr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Htr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
BLO: Work stitch as stated, but in back loop of stitch only.
Dc2tog – decrease st worked over 2 stitches: insert hook under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Gauge:
Please check your gauge to obtain stated size and to ensure yarn quantities stated are achieved. If your swatch is too small, try going up a hook size to obtain gauge. If your swatch size is too big try going down a hook size to obtain gauge. Of course, gauge isn’t imperative as this is not a garment that is worn. However, if you do not check your gauge, you may need more yarn than stated and your lovey may turn out smaller or larger than stated.
Want a calm, ad-free, printable version with both UK and US terminology included, check out the premium pattern in my Etsy shop — perfect to save with your project notes or take on the go./em> Click below to get the PDF.
⭐ Easy to print and follow anywhere ⭐ Ad-free for a calm crochet experience ⭐ Available to download in both UK and US crochet terms ⭐ Helps support my small crochet business
Plus grab your FREE printable Mini Crochet Planner at the end of this post, to help you keep track of your pattern progress.
The Pattern
Head
Ch2
Round 1: 6dc into 2nd ch from hook (6dc / 6sc )
Round 2: 2dc in next st and in each st around (12dc / 12sc )
Round 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 4: *2dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts*repeat around (24dc / 24sc )
Round 5: * 2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts *repeat around (30dc / 30sc )
Round 6: *2dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts* repeat around (36dc / 36sc )
Round 7: *2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts* repeat around (42dc / 42sc )
Round 8: *2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts* repeat around (48dc / 48sc )
Round 9 – 13: dc in each st around (48dc / 48sc )
Round 14: *dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts* repeat around (42dc / 42sc)
Round 15: *dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts* repeat around (36dc / 36sc )
Round 16: *dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts* repeat around (30dc / 30sc )
Round 17: *dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts* repeat around (24dc / 24sc )
Round 18: *dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Now tightly stuff head with safety toy filling
In Back Loops Only (BLO)
Round 19: *dc2tog, dc in next st* repeat around (12dc / 12sc )
Fasten off leaving a long tail. You will use this to sew the head to the blanket.
How to embroider the face
Take a long length of embroider floss and split off 3 strands by holding them and pulling down the whole length. When making your stitches do not pull them to tight, a gentle tension is all that is needed. I embroidered the face with one long length of floss, to do this pull your stitches through slowly, to prevent tangling and /or knotting.
Nose:
Start by threading your sewing needle and inserting it through the bottom of the head and leaving a small tail visible hanging from the stuffing. Exit needle on row 6 from the bottom of the head, insert needle diagonally into row 8. I made my diagonal stitch over 3 dc’s width. Exit needle in row 6 under previous entry point and insert at opposite diagonal. Do not fasten off move straight onto the eyes.
Eyes:
Insert pin to mark where the eye will start, above and inline with the outside of the nose on the right side (facing you) with the floss still on your needle exit in st marked by your needle on row 11, insert needle in a gentle diagonal on row below, exit needle horizontally on same row about 2sts across, insert needle at point of last entry (back stitch), exit needle in a gentle diagonal on outside edge of eye on row above the horizontal st just made, exit needle below lid a ¼ of the way from the outside of eye and insert needle in a straight line to eye lid to make first eyelash. Exit needle below outside edge of lid at a slight angle and insert needle at outside edge of eye lid to make final eye lash. Do not fasten off.
Exit needle at point for second eye and repeat process. Finish by bringing floss through the bottom of the head and tie with starting tail and trim ends.
Round3: *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st* repeat around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 4 – 7: dc in each st around (18dc / 18sc )
Round 8: dc2tog, dc in next 14sts, dc2tog, (16dc / 16sc )
Round 9: dc2tog, dc in next 12sts, dc2tog (14dc / 14sc )
Round 10: dc2tog, dc in next 10sts, dc2tog (12dc / 12sc )
Rounds 11 – 14: dc in each st around (12dc / 12sc )
Round 15: dc2tog all around (6dc / 6sc ) Fasten off and leave along tail, now with a darning needle attach the ears securely to the head by sewing along both the outer side and under side of the ear, catching under the stitches of the head and the ear. You may find it helpful to pin the ears into position before you sew them on. This helps you to decide on a good position and will prevent lopsided ears! Once competed weave in any loose ends.
Bow
With pink cotton
Ch 6
Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch along, turn (5dc / 5sc )
Row 2 – 10: dc in each st along, turn (5dc / 5sc )
Fasten off and weave in ends. Take long piece of cotton and tie a knot in the middle of bow, snipping short the shorter tail. Now wrap long tail several times around the middle of the bow taking care to cover the tail you snipped short. To finish take the cotton wrapped around the bow and thread needle. Finish by taking needle through the wrapped cotton on the backside and knot, leaving a long tail. Now with a darning needle, securely sew bow to the head and weave in any loose ends.
Now with a small amount of blusher on a brush add two little rosy cheeks to the face.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. With a darning needle attach to underside of head securely by sewing along both the outer side and under side of the arm, catching under the stitches of the head and the arm. You may find it helpful to pin the arms into position before you sew them on. Finish by sewing criss cross the bottom of head to close the gap.
Blanket
Ch 6, slst to 1st ch to form a ring
Round 1: Ch3 (counts as tr) 15tr into ring, join with a slst to top of ch3 (16tr / 16dc )
Round 2: ch3 (counts as a tr) tr in same space, ch1, 2tr in same space, *ch1, miss a st, 2tr in next st, ch1, miss a stitch, (2tr in next st, ch1, 2tr in same space)* repeat * – * twice, ch1, miss a st, 2tr in next st, ch1, slst to top of ch3, slst to corner space
Round 3: ch3 (counts as a tr) tr in same space, ch1, 2tr in same space, *ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, (2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in same space)* repeat * – * twice, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, 2tr in next ch space, ch1, slst to top of ch3, slst to corner space
Rounds 4 – 8: continue rounds as round 3, you will have an extra set of 2tr, ch1 along each side in each row.
Ie/ continue with corner spaces = 2tr, ch1, 2tr, ch1
Sides = 2tr, ch1
Rounds 9 – 14: Continue as rounds 4 – 8 but add 2ch in corner spaces
Ie/ continue with corner spaces = 2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch1
Sides = 2tr, ch1
Round 15: ch2 (counts as htr), htr in same space, ch2, 2htr in same space, htr in each st and in each space along edge
Corner space = 2htr, ch2, 2htr
Fasten off and weave in ends
Now with the long tail from the head, thread darning needle and position head in centre of blanket with the face pointing to a corner of the blanket (on the diagonal) sew securely all around utilising the front loops from round 19 of head. You will also need to sew blanket to the arms also. I like to sew around the head twice just for added security.
Thank you so much for crocheting along with me — I hope you enjoy making this pattern.
WHAT CROCHETERS ARE SAYING
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ “Absolutely loved this pattern”
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ “Love this pattern, very easy to follow”
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ “First time making something like this, this pattern made it easy”
If you enjoyed this pattern, you may also like these beginner-friendly crochet projects designed to be relaxing, practical, and perfect for using yarn you already own.
These floppy crochet bunny ears are soft, beginner-friendly, and perfect for baby gifts, loveys, bonnets, and toys.
This free pattern works up quickly and creates that classic gentle floppy ear shape that makes handmade projects extra special.
With only a week until Easter Sunday, I thought I would share the pattern for these Easter bunny ears I made yesterday. I was making a little newborn bunny photo shoot outfit and needed some cute floppy bunny ears to complete the look. I am using my Baby Bear Bonnet Pattern and my own diaper cover pattern which I have just not had chance to write up yet!
They are super simple to make. I used Stylecraft special Aran weight yarn in grey and cream and a 5mm hook and my finished floppy bunny ears measure approx.16cms long.
Pattern Notes
The outer ears are worked in the round, with the inner ears worked in rows and made separately then sewn into place.
My pattern is written using UK terminology but I have provided a US stitch conversion below. Please note chain stitches do not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
Round 1: 6htr into 2nd ch from hook, join with a slst into top of 1st htr, ch1 . ( 6htr see pic 1.)
Round 2: 2htr in each st around, join with a slst into top of 1st htr, ch1. (12htr see pic 2.)
Round3: *2htr in next st, 1 htr in next st* repeat around, join with a slst into top of 1st htr, ch1. (18htr see pic 3.)
Round 4 – 9: htr in each st around, join with a slst into top of 1st htr, ch1. (18htr see pic 4.)
Round 10: htr2tog, htr in next 14sts, htr2tog, join with a slst in top of 1st htr, ch1 (16htr)
Round 11: htr2tog, htr in next 12sts, htr2tog, join with a slst in top of 1st htr, ch1 (14htr)
Round 12: htr2tog, htr in next 10sts, htr2tog, join with a slst in top of 1st htr, ch1 (12htr see pic 5.)
Rounds 13 – 17: htr in each st around, join with slst in 1st htr, ch1 (12htr see pic 6.)
Round 18: htr2tog all around, join with a slst in 1st htr, ch1 and turn (6htr)
Now flatten circle and slst edges together, fasten off and leave an extra long tail for sewing…longer than you normally would, trust me here as you will need the extra length later! (see pic 7)
Inner Ear
Made in rows.
make 2
In cream
Row 1: ch4, htr in 2nd ch from hook and in each st along, ch1 and turn (3htr)
Row 2: 2htr, htr, 2htr, ch1, turn (5htr)
Row 3: 2htr, htr in next 3sts, 2htr, ch1, turn (7htr)
Row 4 – 6: htr in each st, ch1, turn (7htr)
Row 7: htr2tog, htr in each st along, ch1, turn (6htr)
Row 8: htr2tog, htr in each st along, ch1, turn (5htr)
Row 9 -11: htr in each st, ch1, turn (5htr)
Row 12: htr2tog, htr in each st, ch1, turn (4htr see pic 8.)
Row 13: htr in each st along, ch1, turn (4htr)
slst all around inner ear to finish, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew to outer ear (see pic 9)
How To Attach Crochet Bunny Ears
To attach bunny ears to chosen bonnet/hat I found that giving the top of the ear a twist and securing with a couple of stitches, gives the ear a little bounce and allows the inner ear to peek out. If the ear is not twisted before attaching to bonnet / hat then you will not be able to see the inner ear…which seems a shame, been as you have just gone to the effort of hooking them. See Pic 10 to see where to twist and sew (indicated by red dots).
Finally pin and securely sew your bunny ears to your bonnet. If you prefer a hat why not checkout My Best Beanie Pattern available in sizes newborn to large adult.
Now all that’s left to do is enjoy all of that floppy bunny ear cuteness!
Want to stay organised with your crochet projects? You can join my email list to receive your free Crochet Project Planner and lots of cosy crochet inspiration.
