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Grandma Mary Tea Cosy Pattern

Published on October 2, 2016January 22, 2018 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin1 Comment

This is a very pretty tea cosy, perfect for keeping your teapot dressed in style and your tea hot. It is the first of a series of tea cosies which make up the Grandma collection.

Grandma Mary Tea Cosy

Dedicated to the inspiration that was ‘Mary’ the pattern has flowers made on a small flower loom, which are inexpensive to buy and relatively easy to use. I purchased mine for about £3.

The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 4 cup teapot

I used just under 50g of Rico baby classic dk yarn in colourway (026)

and scraps of yarn.

I used scraps of stylecraft special dk in the following colourway (nb/the mint is Stylecraft life dk)

Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.

Ch – chain stitch

slst – slip stitch

dc – double crochet ( single crochet)

dc tog – double crochet together (single crochet together)

You will also need:

a small flower loom

a 4mm hook

a darning needle

scraps of yarn to use as temporary tie markers

scraps of yarn to make flowers

a string of beads 50cms long

50cms of lace 0.5cms broad

a stitch marker

Top Tip: safety pins make excellent stitch markers!

Ok, here we go…

Ch 80 and join with a slst to form a circle (before completing the slst make sure chain is not twisted).

It is a good idea to check at this point that the circle of chains fits around your teapot. (see end of pattern for instructions about adjusting pattern).

Row 1: Ch1 (mark with a stitch marker, does not count as a dc), dc in each ch around

finish with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker taking care that work is not twisted when completing the slst. (80dc).

Row 2: Ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as a dc)

Dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker. (80 dc).

Rows 3 – 5: repeat row 2

Row 6: Ch 1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 14sts, mark next st with a tie marker (different colour yarn which will be removed later – I just tied a bow in red yarn!) see picture below.

slst in same st as tie marker and in next 6 sts and mark last slst with a second tie marker as shown in the picture above. This is where the spout hole starts!

1dc in next 33sts, mark next st with a third tie marker, slst in same st as tie marker and in next 4 sts, mark the last slst with a fourth tie marker. This is where the hole for the handle starts!

1dc in next 21 sts, slst in ch marked with a stitch marker. (35dc, 7slst, 33dc, 5slst). Fasten off.

This next part of the pattern is worked in rows as side (a) and side (b) and forms the sides of the cosy.

So let’s do side (a) first…

Row 7a: Join yarn in st next to the 4th tie marker and to the right hand side of the stitch marker

ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 35 sts to next tie marker, turn.

Row 8a: ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 35sts to tie marker, turn.

Rows 9a – 25a: repeat row 8a, fasten off.

OK, now let’s do side (b). Turn over work and join yarn in st next to second tie marker on the right as shown.

Row 7b: ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 33 sts to next tie marker, turn.

Row 8b: ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 33 sts to next tie marker, turn. Rows 9b – 24b: repeat row 8b.

Row 25b: ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 33sts to next tie marker, ch5,

slst into 1st st on row 25a as shown.

Again, this is a good point to check the cosies fit on your tea pot. We return to working in the round again now.

So Row 26: Ch1 (mark with a stitch marker…NB/ this ch does count as a dc), dc in next 34sts, ch7,

dc in next 33sts,

dc in next ch5, slst into ch marked by stitch marker. (80dc).

Row 27: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place stitch marker in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next 34sts, dc in next 7chs

dc in next 38sts, slst in ch marked with the stitch marker. (80dc)

It is now time to start decreasing the number of stitches to form the top of the cosy. To do this a dc tog stitch is introduced. Top Tip: each row that uses dc tog stitches finishes on a dc tog before slst in to ch marked with st marker! Here we go…

Row 29: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next 5sts, dc tog in next st, dc in next 6sts, dc tog in next st

repeat * -* around,

finish with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (72dc).

Row 30: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (72dc).

Row 31: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next 3 sts, dc tog in next st,

* dc in next 4 sts, dc tog in next st , repeat -* around,

finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (60dc).

Row 32: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around,

finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (60dc).

Row 33: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next 2sts, dc tog in next st, * dc in next 3sts, dc tog in next st , repeat -* around,

finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (48dc).

Row 34: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc),

dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (48dc).

Row 35: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc in next st, dc tog in next st,

* dc in next 2 sts, dc tog in next st , repeat -* around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (36dc).

Row 36: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc in each stitch around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (36dc).

Row 37: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc tog in next st,

* dc in next st, dc tog in next st *

repeat - around, finishing with slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (24dc).

Row 38: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc in each st around, finish by slst into ch marked with stitch marker. (24dc).

Row 39:ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc tog in next st,

* dc tog in next st * repeat - around, finish with a slst in ch marked by stitch marker. (12dc).

Row 40:repeat row 39 (6dc).

Row 41: repeat row 39 (3dc). Fasten off.

You should have something that resembles the above …now its time to make the flowers!!!

If you don’t know how to make loom flowers they are simple to make. I highly recommend you watch a tutorial…I found this one excellent…

loom bloom video tutorial

Make

x8 white / violet flowers

x10 raspberry flowers

x9 pale rose / plum flowers

all flowers to have the same colour centre…I used mint. Leave long tails on each flower to make attaching them easier.

Keep back x1 raspberry, x1 white, x1 pale rose and x1 plum flower.

Begin to attach the rest of the flowers to the top of the tea cosy using the long tails and darning needle.

Continue around

Evenly attaching the flowers…

Once attached turn tea cosy inside out and tie of all loose ends

Snipping to make tidy.

Next, take the lace. Turning the tea cosy inside out tack the lace around the edge of the opening for the spout and the handle.

Turn, the cosy back to the right side; you should now have a cosy that is beginning to look very pretty indeed…

Taking the string of beads, thread a darning needle with some raspberry coloured yarn and tie a large knot.

Starting at the bottom side of the handle hole pull the needle through from the inside of the cosy to the outside so that the knot cannot be seen.

Begin to tack between each bead, fixing them in a line around the cosy towards the spout hole.Once at the spout hole, snip the beads, turn cosy over and repeat on side b.

Finally, attach raspberry coloured flower at the bottom of the handle hole in the space between the beads.

Attach remaining white, pale rose and plum flower in space between the beads at the bottom of the spout hole. Weave in any remaining loose ends.

Just one last thing left to do now. Boil the kettle and make a brew…enjoy and admire.

NB/ TIPS FOR ALTERING THE SIZE OF THE cosy…regularly check the size of the cosy on your teapot. The body of the cosy has the same amount of stitches as row 1, if yours is more or less than 80sts then keep the number of sts you have up to row 28 in order to create the handle and spout holes, place around your teapot and mark with tie markers as described then count your sts between each marker and substitute your numbers into the pattern.

xxxxx

Grandma Mary Tea Cosy part of the Grandma Collection ©2016 designed by Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin

crochet v stitch blanket, rainbow blanket

Very V blanket tutorial

Published on August 30, 2016January 10, 2023 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin15 Comments

Thank you for your lovely comments about my latest blanket off the hook…the ‘Very V’ blanket.

It really is very simple to hook, so I thought I would put together a little tutorial, as I have not done one for a while and because I have some rare time off on my own. The tutorial can be found below. You can also check out my latest free pattern The Angelece baby blanket by clicking on this link.

So, clearly this is not an original pattern. I say that from the offset because of copyright and all of that. Let’s be honest…the humble ‘v stitch’ has been around for years. But this is my tutorial in case you want to have a crack for yourself and you have never done a ‘v stitch’ and you are a visual kinda gal or guy.

Here we go!

Final measurements: 132cms x 120cms / 52″ x47″

I used Stylecraft special dk , for it’s durability, softness and price! The colorway I used:

Lipstick x 1 ball

Meadow x1 ball

Saffron x 1 ball

Violet x 1 ball

Spice x 1 ball

Lobelia x 1 ball

Storm blue x 1 ball

Cream x 3 balls

You will also need a 4mm hook and a darning needle to weave in those ends!

Of course if you are using different yarn then you may need to use the recommended hook size for your chosen yarn; and of course you can alter the finished size by hooking more or less chains to start.

Your hooking tension (we are all different) may also mean you need more or less chains to start with.

Lets start, are you ready?

Abbreviations used are below and are English terminology.

Ch = chain stitch

Chs = chains

Tr = treble stitch (double crochet in US terminology!)

St = stitch

Slst = slip stitch

Sp = space

Pattern order I used:

Row 1: Cream

Row 2: Lobelia

Row 3: Violet

Row 4: Cream

Row 5: Storm blue

Row 6: Meadow

Row 7: Cream

Row 8: Saffron

Row 9: Spice

Row 10: Cream

Row 11: Lipstick

Row 12: Indigo

Row 13: Cream

Row 14: Violet

Row 15: Storm blue

Row 16: Cream

Row 17: Meadow

Row 18: Saffron

Row 19: Cream

Row 20: Spice

Row 21: Lipstick

Row 22: Cream

NB/ the first and last row form the edging for the top and bottom of the blanket so use the colour you wish to edge the blanket in, for row 1.

Chain 175 in cream

(This gave me about a 1m 15cm /42″ length of Ch. But any odd number of Chs will work to suit the size blanket you are wishing to hook!).

2tr in 5th ch from hook,

miss a ch, 2tr in next ch

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miss a ch, 2tr in next ch

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miss a ch, 2tr in next ch

Repeat * – * across the row.

Finishing with 1tr in last ch. Change colour. As shown below, I change colour by completing half of the process for the last tr (ie/ leave two loops on the hook). Complete last part of tr in new colour as shown.

I find this makes colour changes more secure. These ends should be tied to secure further. Top tip! leave the ends long (approx. 10cms) so that weaving in is easier.

Turn. Ch3 (counts as 1tr)

2tr in the middle of set of tr’s of previous row

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Continue along the row.

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finishing with 1tr in top of 3rd ch on previous row.

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Change colour. Turn.

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And that’s it!

Top Tip!! Weave in the ends every few rows.

Repeat rows 1-22 x5 times.

Then repeat rows 1 – 13 to finish body of blanket. And if you did not adhere to the top tip above…now is the time to weave in those ends!

InstagramCapture_a30fea23-613a-4f2f-8788-4163b29b22dd

I’ve gone all minimalistic for the edging because the blanket itself is simply stunning in this colourway and I did not feel like it needed something fussy to detract from its beauty.

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This is what I did.

The first and last row (in cream if you have been following this colourway) form the edging for the top and bottom of this blanket. In cream / your chosen edging colour join in the space at the bottom right of your blanket as shown.

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Ch 3 and slst into the top st of the first tr/ch3 of 1st row.

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Ch1, 2tr in same sp

2tr in next sp (the sp is the gap between the side of the first sts of each row), 2tr in next sp.

Continue along the edge until you come to the top corner. 2tr in last sp, ch 1, 1tr in same sp.

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Then slst into the top st of the first tr/ch3 of last row as shown. Fasten off. Repeat for the other side of the blanket.

Finally, in Lobelia (or your chosen colour) join in any st of edge with a slst.

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Slst in each st around edge of blanket. Fasten off and weave in loose ends. And that is it, you should now have one of these to snuggle under…or reluctantly gift.

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Well done if you got this far.

I really hope you have found this tutorial easy to follow. I welcome feedback, so let me know how you got on and if you want to share your picture of your finished make you can in the comment section below.

I would love to see what you have made.

xxxxx

joining with a double crochet

Published on March 8, 2016March 22, 2016 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin11 Comments

I’ve been asked several times to put together a tutorial about how I joined my 100 patch granny square blanket… so here it is…

I love joining squares with a double crochet (dc) English terminology that is…single crochet if you use American speak! The reason is that lovely little ridge which just frames each square.

The hard, but fun part is deciding upon the placement of each tiny square, but once you have made your mind up the joining together is quick and easy.

To download the pdf version click here, otherwise full instructions are below:

To join two rows take 2 squares, and place them together so that the corners align. The front of squares should be facing outwards….(the back of one square should be facing the back of the other square)

With the joining yarn, pull through a loop. Leave a long tail (for weaving in later!) and for now just hold securely behind your work, until you have made a few stitches.

Ch1, then dc in the same space. Taking the hook through both squares, as shown.

taking the hook through both squares stitches; dc in each of the next 4sts, then dc in space,

dc in next 4sts, then dc in space.

your squares are now joined, but do not fasten off. If you open your squares out you will notice that there is a little ridge along the one side….this is the front side of your work.

The back of your work will look like this.

Top tip, always note the front and back of your work…it is soul destroying to find out that you have some ridges on the front and some on the back of your work; then spending ages having to unpick all that hard work!!

Taking two more squares, align corners as before… front sides facing out, and ridge of previous squares facing up! Dc in corner space, then dc in next 4sts, dc in space, dc in next 4 sts.

Repeat this process until you have joined two rows of squares. Fasten off at the end and leave a long tail again!

For the 100 patch granny blanket there were 10 squares per row.

As you can see, the squares are just joined along one side.

Put to one side and repeat the process x 4 more times, so that you end up with x5 lots of joined double rows.

Next lay out the double rows adjacent to each other. The next stage is to join the double rows together horizontally. With right sides facing up (ridge side up), align the squares adjacent to one another.

On the right edge, pull through a loop in the corner space with your joining yarn, ch1, dc in same space. Dc in next 4sts, dc in space, dc in next 4 sts.

Continue along the row, making sure 1dc is placed in each st and in each space. Fasten off as before at the end of the row, remembering to leave a long tail for weaving in purposes. Repeat until all 10 rows are joined horizontally.

You should now have a 100 squares all joined horizontally.

Your next task is to join the squares vertically. I found this easier to do by flipping the work around and hooking the verticals, horizontally…if that makes sense!! As in the picture above… the completed joining ridge you can see is the horizontal join previously completed.

The process is the same… with chosen joining yarn (leaving a long tail, ch1 in edge corner space, dc in same space, 1dc in next 4 sts, dc in space, 1 dc in next 4sts, dc in corner space…as above.

Taking hook over the top of horizontal ridge, dc in next corner space as shown and repeat. Making a dc in each space and in each st along. Making sure to take the hook over any horizontal ridges before placing a dc in the following corner space.

Repeat process for each vertical run.

Then weave in those ends, ready to border.

xxxxx

Robin’s nest square

Published on March 2, 2016March 23, 2016 by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin7 Comments

How can x2 part completed quilts just get mislaid???? That is the question I am pondering this week. Several years ago I started on two lovely quilts and I cant find them anywhere. However I did find this…

A square I hooked several years ago… along with my scribbled notes on the pattern. So I hooked up a new one and thought I’d share.

As always I’m using English crochet terminology.

Ch – chain

Slst – slip stitch

dc – double crochet

tr – treble crochet

ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated.

I’m using drops muskat cotton

and I’m using the colours listed below

red

old pink

white

vanilla yellow

dark orange

sky blue

apple green

and a 4mm crochet hook. This lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked. To download a pdf version click here, otherwise full instructions are below.

So here goes…

ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring

Row 1: ch3,

11tr into ring,

join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch

(12tr in total).

Row 2: ch3,

1tr in same space, ch1

2tr in next st, ch1

2tr in next st, ch1, repeat * * x10 times,

slst into 3rd ch

(12 clusters of 2tr).

Row 3: join white yarn in any ch space, ch3,

2tr in same sp, ch1

3tr in next ch space, ch1

repeat * * x10 times

join with slst in ch3

(12 clusters of 3tr).

Row 4: join green yarn in any space and ch3,

3tr in same sp, ch1

4tr in next space, ch1,

repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3

(12 clusters of 4tr)

Row 5: join yellow yarn in any space and ch3,

4tr in same sp, ch1

5tr in next space, ch1,

repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3

(12 clusters of 5tr)

Row 6: join pink yarn to any space and ch3,

5tr in same sp, ch1,

6tr in next sp, ch1,

repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3

(12 clusters of 6tr)

Row 7: join red yarn in any space, ch3,

5tr in same space,

ch3,

6tr in same space (corner made),

*6tr in next space, 6tr in next space,

6tr in next space, ch3,

6tr in same space (2nd corner made),*

repeat * x2 times*

6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.

Row 8: ch3,

1tr in next 5sts,

*6tr in ch3 sp,

ch2

6tr in same space (corner made),

1tr in next 5sts,

dc in next space (indicated by needle)

1tr in next 5sts,

dc in next space, 1tr in next 5sts,

dc in next space, 1tr in next 5sts*,

repeat * * x2times

6tr in ch3 space, ch2, 6tr in same space (corner made)

1tr in next 5sts, dc in next space,

1tr in next 5 sts, dc in next space,

1tr in next 5 sts,

slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish.

Weave in ends.

Pin out to block… this is really worth the extra effort. I just pinned this square to a clean towel,

then spritz with water and leave to dry.

blocking really makes the the world of difference…

A very versatile yarny square.

Happy hooking

xxxxx

‘Robins nest square’ designed by Nicola Florence @ ayarnyrobin.wordpress.com…….March 2016