This free Yarny Bee crochet pattern is a simple amigurumi bee design that’s quick to make, great for using leftover yarn, and perfect for handmade gifts or craft fairs. They make sweet bag charms. They can be added to summer wreaths. They are perfect for all kinds of handmade décor. They are also quick and simple to crochet. They’re ideal for market sellers looking for fast makes. And make thoughtful gifts for friends and teachers. They’re also a lovely way to use up leftover yarn from your stash, especially if you’re trying to keep things tidy and actually use up those small odds and ends.
Here’s the free crochet bee pattern, just for you — I hope you enjoy making them as much as I do. They’re a lovely quick crochet project when you want a satisfying finish, and I’m currently making a few more to turn into a fun little tic-tac-toe game (they’re surprisingly addictive!).
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Yarn and bee size
You can use any yarn to make this project, but I think they look best made from cotton. The chunkier the yarn the bigger the bee.
I used Sirdar Happy Cotton
20g in Sundae (Yellow), Sandcastle (Brown) for main body. You should get 2 bees from this
20g Dolly (white/cream) will be enough for multiple bees (x4)
20g Liquorice (black) will be enough for a swarm of bees
My finished bee measured 6cms long x 3cms wide x 5cms tall.
You will need:
Hook – use one size down from recommended on yarn ball. I used a 3mm
Scissors
Darning needle to weave in ends
Yarn of your choice
Stitch marker (recommended)
Safety eyes (I used 5mm – if you are using thicker yarn your bee will be larger so you may want to consider using bigger eyes. Alternatively, you could embroider the eyes using the black yarn.
Polyester toy filling (fire safety standard / EN71)
Blusher or crayon for cheeks (optional)
Pattern Notes:
Abbreviations used – UK terminology
The bee is made in continuous rounds or spirals. It is a method commonly used in amigurumi and means there will be no visible seam. When you start a new round just work it into the next st. I highly recommend marking the first st of each round with a st marker.
Repeats are marked by *
How to do a jogless join colour change
For clean, smooth stripes, I recommend using a Jogless join when changing colour. If you would like a more in-depth step by step explanation take a look at my previous post: How to do a Jogless Join
When changing colour, you need to work the previous stitch to the colour change differently. Work the stitch as normal until there are 2 loops on the hook, then pull the new colour through all 2 loops to complete the dc stitch; this is a standard colour change.
Slst in the front loop of next st, this counts as the 1st st of the new row. I suggest marking the slst with a st marker until you are familiar with this method.
Do not cut yarn, simply drop non-working yarn on wrong side and pick up working yarn.
Stitches
st – stitch slst – slip stitch
ch – chain dc – double crochet
Inv-Dec – invisible decrease htr – half treble
Tr – treble dtr – double treble
BLO – back loop only FLO – front loop only
Dc: Insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 2 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through both loops on hook.
Inv-Dec – invisible decrease st worked over 2 stitches: insert hook under FLO of stitch, insert hook under FLO of next st (3 loops on hook) yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops.
Htr: Yarn over before inserting hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, insert hook, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Tr: Yarn over hook, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 3 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Dtr: Yarn over hook twice, insert hook into chain or under both loops of stitch, yarn over and pull through so there are 4 loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
BLO: Work stitch as stated, but in back loop of stitch only.
FLO: Work stitch as stated, but in front loop of stitch only
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pattern
In yellow, make a magic ring
Rnd 1: 6dc into magic ring (6dc)
Rnd 2: 2dc in each st around (12dc)
Rnd 3: *2dc in next st, dc in next st* repeat around (18dc) change colour (brown / black)
Rnd 4: slst in FLO of 1st st,dc in each st around(1 slst, 17dc)
Rnd 5: dc in each st around, (18dc) change colour (yellow). Place st marker whilst you insert eyes.
Insert safety eyes in desired position.
Rnd 6: slst in FLO of 1st st,dc in each st around(1 slst, 17dc)
Rnd 7: dc in each st around,(18dc)change colour (black / brown)
Rnd 8: slst in FLO of 1st st,dc in each st around(1 slst, 17dc)
Rnd 9: dc in each st around,(18dc) fasten off brown yarn.Change colour (yellow)
Rnd 10: slst in FLO of 1st st, inv-dec*dc, inv-dec* repeat around (12dc)
Rnd 11: inv-dec all around (6dc). Stuff With toy filling.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. With darning needle close with running st, pull tight and weave in any loose ends.
To create the antennae, cut a length of black yarn approx. 12cms long.
- Insert hook where you would like the 1st antennae to be positioned (I placed mine between rounds 3 and 4).
- Exit hook where you would like the 2nd antennae to be positioned (I left approx. a finger space between the antennae).
- Pull yarn right through, so that you have two long antennae.
- Tie a knot in each antennae at equal distance from the body of the bee and trim tails close to knot.
Make 2 wings in cream.
Row 1: Leaving a long tail Ch6, dc in 2nd ch from hook and each st along, turn (5dc)
Row 2: ch1, htr, tr, 4dtr, tr, htr. Fasten off and weave in end.
With darning needle sew wings into position.
Add blusher / crayon to cheeks if desired.
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