The ‘Florence cosy’ will add a large dose of fun to your teapot with a fluffy oversized pompom and woven ribbons.
and the ‘Kathy cosy’ offers understated off the shoulder glamour in traditional granny stitch style.
Each patterns is free and comes with a photo tutorial. They are easy to hook and make great weekend projects; which makes them the perfect gift for tea lovers.
Which one is your favourite?
I hope you will have fun hooking these great tea cosies.
I am so thrilled to be able to introduce the Sunshine Jelly Baby blanket to you.
This delightful crochet blanket is vibrant and fun to hook and the pattern is available, complete with a photo tutorial just below. Made from Drops Muskat cotton, it measures 74cms x 74cms or 29″ x 29″…the perfect pram blanket size, of course you can make the blanket bigger by adding more squares if you wish. You can also check out my latest free baby blanket pattern…The Angelece Baby Blanket by clicking this link. This delicious blanket is made using the Robins Nest square which I designed a few years ago and if you are a regular here you will know that I have recently updated this pattern. When I firstdesigned this square I always intended to make a baby blanket…I guess somethings just take a while to come to pass.
As always I’m using English crochet terminology. Ch – chain Slst – slip stitch dc – double crochet tr – treble crochet
ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated. I’m using drops muskat cotton.
and I’m using the colours and quantities listed below red – 100g old pink – 80g white – 50g vanilla yellow – 65g dark orange -20g
sky blue – 35g
apple green – 50g
and a 4mm crochet hook and a 3.5mm crochet hook
Each lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.
You will need to make 16 squares to make this blanket arranged
4 x 4…
of course you can make more squares if you wish to make a larger version.
So here goes…
with a 4mmhook ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)
Row 1: ch3,
11tr into ring,
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12tr in total).
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 3tr).
Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3,
3tr in same sp, ch1
*4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1*,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3, 4tr in same sp, ch1
*5tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3, 5tr in same sp, ch1, *6tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3, 5tr in same space,
ch3,
6tr in same space (corner made),
*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,
6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space* (2nd corner made) repeat * * x2 times
6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.
Row 8: ch3,
1tr in next 5sts,
*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2, 6tr in same space (corner made),
*1tr in next 5sts,
dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch
1tr in next 6sts, 6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*
repeat * * x2times
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish. Weave in ends.
Blocking:
A word on blocking: Before blocking…
Your square will be wibbly. After blocking…
Your square will lie flat and will look much better. Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin the square to the required measurements to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry.
Joining:
I have used a simple and easy slip stitch to join these squares. I have chosen this join for two reasons. The first reason is that it is secure and does not add anything to the squares, allowing them to showcase themselves.
The second reason is it uses the least amount of yarn and also creates less ends to weave in.
So to join the squares start by placing 2 squares with the right side to the right side…ie/ the wrong side of each square will be facing outwards.
Note that this join requires you to place slip stitches in the top of the stitches along the edge of the square and you should go under both loops of each stitch.
Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in both stitches of each square, these stitches should be the corresponding stitches for each square. Some stitches will require you to slip stitch in the top square only. This is because the squares are only joined to each other at each corner and in the middle of each scallop.
Join yarn in 2nd ch of any corner space and with a 3.5mm hook slst,
in both squares slst in the next 6sts,
in top square only slst in next 6 sts (tr), slst in next st (dc), slst in next st (1st tr of scallop),
*in both squares slst in next 3 sts (2nd, 3rd &4th st of scallop),
in top square only slst in next 3sts (tr,dc,tr)*
repeat * – *
in top square only slst in next 5sts,
in both squares slst in next 6 sts, miss chst, slst into 2nd ch of corner space.
Repeat this process for each side of the square which requires joining. You will not need to cut your yarn at the end of each side joined as you can continue round by adding another square. I started joining in the middle of the blanket. You will have to join in a new corner space for some of the joins, but the process remains the same.
I would love to see your makes and you can share on social media by using the following hashtags
#ayarnyrobin #yarnyrobin @yarnyrobin
This pattern to include the photos are the property of Nicola Florence @ayarnyrobin. You can’t modify, resell or share this pattern. You can sell finished items made from it, but please mention that the item is made using AYARNYROBIN pattern.
I have updated this lovely pattern and have re shot the tutorial photos, so they are clearer. I have also updated this pattern on ravelry too so you can save for later if you want to.
Hope you enjoy!
As always I’m using English crochet terminology. Ch – chain Slst – slip stitch dc – double crochet tr – treble crochet
ch3 – counts as a treble unless otherwise stated. I’m using drops muskat cotton
and I’m using the colours listed below, you will see you only need a very small quantity of yarn. red – 16g old pink – 5g white – 3g vanilla yellow – 4g dark orange -1g
sky blue – 2g
apple green – 3g
and a 4mm crochet hook.
This lovely yarny square measures 7″ x 7″ or 18cm x 18cm once blocked.
So here goes…
ch2, join with ss to form a tiny ring (you could make a magic circle instead if you prefer)
Row 1: ch3,
11tr into ring,
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12tr in total).
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times,
join white yarn and slst into 3rd ch
(12 clusters of 2tr and 12 ch spaces).
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
(12 clusters of 3tr).
Row 4: join green yarn in between any cluster of 3tr of previous round and ch3,
3tr in same sp, ch1
*4tr in between next cluster of 3tr, ch1*,
repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 4tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 5: join yellow yarn in any ch space and ch3, 4tr in same sp, ch1
*5tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with slst in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 5tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 6: join pink yarn to any ch space and ch3, 5tr in same sp, ch1, *6tr in next ch space, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times, join with ss in ch3 and fasten off. (12 clusters of 6tr and 12 ch spaces)
Row 7: join red yarn in any ch space, ch3, 5tr in same space,
ch3,
6tr in same space (corner made),
*6tr in next ch space, 6tr in next ch space,
6tr in next space, ch3, 6tr in same space* (2nd corner made) repeat * * x2 times
6tr in next space, 6tr in next space, join with slst in beginning ch3. Do not fasten off.
Row 8: ch3,
1tr in next 5sts,
*6tr in ch3 sp, ch2, 6tr in same space (corner made),
*1tr in next 5sts,
dc UNDER next stitch (indicated by the hook)
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch
1tr in next 6sts, 6tr in ch sp, ch 2, 6tr in same space*
repeat * * x2times
1tr in next 5sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, 1tr in next 5 sts, dc under next stitch, slst to beginning 3rd ch to finish. Weave in ends.
A word on blocking: Before blocking…
Your square will be wibbly. After blocking…
Your square will lie flat and will look much better. Blocking is really worth the extra effort and isn’t difficult or expensive to do. I just pinned this square to my ironing board so that it measured 7″ by 7″ and hovered my iron just above the square and blasted it with steam. Allow to cool before unpinning and store carefully. Alternatively, you could pin square to the required measurements, to a towel or a pin board, spritz with water and allow to dry. A very versatile yarny square.
This is the fifth tea cosy in the Grandma collection, and is quite simply delightful. The use of traditional granny stitches means that this pattern can be hooked within an evening. Ideal for that last minute handmade present. This cosy is sweetly uncomplicated and will cloak any tea pot with elegance.
Dedicated to the inspiration that is ‘Nanna Kathy’
The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 6 cup teapot.
You will also need a darning needle, pin or stitch marker and a pair of scissors.
Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets below.
Ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet (single crochet)
htr– half treble crochet (half double crochet)
tr – treble crochet (double crochet)
dtr – double treble crochet (treble crochet)
You will also need:
a 5mm crochet hook for main body of teapot and a
4mm hook to complete picot edging trim.
Ok, here we go…
Using the gold yarn and 5mm hook, Ch 20
To adjust cosy size, the starting chain should be equivalent to the height from the base of teapot to the top of the body of the teapot or to put it another way, to the start of lid. If adjusting the starting chain it must be a multiple of 3+2.
*********************
Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each st along, ch3, turn (ch3 counts as tr) (19dc in total).
Row 2: 2tr in same space as ch3, *miss 2 sts, 3tr in next st (granny cluster)*
repeat * – * til end of row, ch3 (counts as tr) turn.
(x7 granny clusters / x6 spaces).
Row 3: miss 1st granny cluster, 3tr in space before next granny cluster, *miss granny cluster, 3tr in space before next granny cluster* Repeat * – * to last space, miss 2 sts, 1tr in last st of row, Ch3 (counts as tr), turn.
(20sts = x6 granny clusters / 7 spaces / 1tr on each end of row).
Rows 4: 2tr in same space as ch 3, *miss granny cluster, 3tr in space before next granny cluster* Repeat * – * to end. Ch3 (counts as tr), turn. ( 21sts = x7 granny clusters / x6 spaces).
Row 5: – 17: Repeat rows 3 and 4, but omit turning ch on row 17.
Row 18: turn, ch1 (does not count as st)dc in same space, dc in each st across, ch3 (counts as tr), turn.
(20sts).
Now to make the spout hole!
Row 19: 2tr in same space as ch 3, miss 2sts, 3tr in next st, ch 10, miss next x5 granny clusters / x4 spaces, 3tr in last st.
(20sts).
Row 20: ch1 (does not count as dc), dc into same space, dc in next 2sts, dc in next 10 chain sts, dc in next 6sts, ch3 (counts as tr), turn. (19dc).
Row 21: Repeat Row 2.
Row 22 – 32: Repeat rows 3 and 4 but omit turning ch on row 32.
If adjusting cosy size make sure to finish this section on a row that is the same as row 3 in the pattern ie/ starts and finishes with 1tr.
*********************
Row 33: ch1 (does not count as dc), dc in same space, dc in each st along and fasten off and weave in ends
(20dc).
nb/ top and bottom – x1 granny cluster underneath spout
Noting top and bottom correctly, attach gold yarn to top right side.
Now to complete the petals.
Row 34:ch1 (does not count as dc), dc in same space, dc in each st across – ( the term sts here is used loosely as they are actually the side posts of the trebles and double crochet sts of the previous rounds. It may look a bit ambiguous, but we are aiming to get 36dc across this top edge), turn.
try to space these sts as evenly as you can… its just a case of getting them in!
Row 35: ch1, *miss 2 sts, in next st place dc, htr, tr, 2dtr, in next st place 2dtr, tr, htr, dc*
Repeat * – * to end of row
slst to beginning ch1 to join cosy in a circle.
Side Seam: Place cosy on teapot and mark with a pin across top of handle, slst from top of cosy down to this point (approx. 1.5cms).
Return cosy to the teapot and repeat process, this time marking below the handle. Remove cosy leaving marker in place, continue to slst along one edge (not both) until you reach marker for the bottom of the handle. Now slst both edges together to bottom of cosy, fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Picot trim: Finally, attach apricot yarn in any beginning dc of petal (ie. dc to the right hand side of petal).
With a 4mm hook, ch1 (counts as dc), dc in next 3sts, dc in next st, ch3, slst into 1st ch (picot made),
dc into same space as previous dc, dc in next 4sts…1st petal edged.
For next petal and for all petals around, dc in next 4sts, dc in next st, ch3, slst into 1st ch, dc in same space as previous dc, dc in next 4sts.
NB/ do not crochet in this space by mistake
Do not crochet in this space by mistake else your picot will not be central!
To finish slst to beginning ch of trim, fasten off and weave in ends.
Now I think it’s time for a brew…don’t you?
xxxxx
I REALLY HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED MAKING THIS PATTERN AS MUCH AS I HAVE ENJOYED CREATING IT FOR YOU. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ABOUT SOMETHING OR NOTICE ANY ERRORS PLEASE SHOUT UP. EQUALLY PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SHARE YOUR Grandma Kathy Tea cosy CREATIONS IN THE COMMENTS BELOW or with the #THEGRANDMACOLLECTION #AYARNYROBIN ON SOCIAL MEDIA…I WOULD LOVE TO SEE THEM!
This is the fourth tea cosy in the Grandma collection, and is sure to charm. The crochet mesh design means this pattern makes for a very quick hook up. Ideal for beginners using just a half treble crochet stitch, this cosy is abidingly delightful and will trim any tea pot with joy.
Dedicated to the inspiration that is ‘Nanna Florence’ otherwise known as my Mom!
The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 6 cup teapot.
I used less than 50g of Stylecraftspecial dk yarn in cream. Please note that I have used a different colour yarn in the beginning of the photo tutorial below.
You will also need a darning needle, a selection of 5mm wide ribbon, a 50cm length of fluff, a button, a pair of scissors and x4 stitch markers (or small safety pins or scraps of different colour yarn). The use of a hot glue gun is optional, ribbons can either be glued into position or stitched.
Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.
Ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet (single crochet)
htr– half treble crochet (half double crochet)
You will also need:
a 4mm crochet hook
Ok, here we go…
Using the cream yarn Ch 4
Join with a slst to form a ring.
Row 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6hdc into ring,
finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (6hdc).
Row 2: Ch1, (does not count as a st) 2hdc in same space, 2hdc in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (12hdc).
Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next st* . Repeat * – * to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (18hdc).
Rows 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 2 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (24hdc).
Row 5: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 3 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (30hdc).
Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdcin next st, 1hdc in next 4 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).
Row 7: ch1 ( does not count as a st), 1hdc in same space and in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).
Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space andin each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).
Row 9 and 10: Repeat row 7, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).
You should have something that is starting to look a bit like a flying saucer! This is a good point to check your measurements with your intended teapot. Place your hooked disc on top of your teapot. You want the edges of the circle to be approx. 1cm from the handle of the teapot.
To mark out handle and spout holes, simply take x4 st markers (or cut short pieces of yarn in a different colour as I did) and place/ tie first marker in the st behind where you joined last row.
Counting backwards (or to the right)miss x3 sts and place/tie second marker in next st. This marks out your handle.
From this second marker count backwards (or to the right) 30sts and place 3rd marker in the next st (31st st). Return to the first marker and count forwards 30 sts (or to the left) and place 4th marker in the next st.
You have now marked out the handle and spout positions for your cosy. Marker #1 and #2 indicate the handle space and markers #3 and #4 indicate the spout space.
The next stage of the cosy is to construct the sides. So, for the purposes of the pattern these will be referred to as side A (between marker #1 and #4) and side B between marker #2 and #3).
Side A row 1: In Cream yarn Ch 4 (counts as 1htr and 2ch), miss 2sts *htr in next st, ch2, miss 2sts*
repeat * -* until you reach marker/ tie #4.
NB/ last htr is completed in st marked by marker / tie #4
(x11htr, x10 ch2spaces)
Side A row 2: ch4 (counts as htr and 2 ch) turn work.
Miss 2 sts, *htr in next st, ch2, miss 2 sts*
repeat * – * to end of row, placing last htr in top of ch2.
(x11htr, x10 ch2 spaces).
Side A row 3: We are going to increase the mesh at each end of the row.
Ch 4 ( counts as htr and 2ch, turn work, htr into same st ( increase made), ch2, miss 2sts, *htr in next st, ch2, miss 2 sts*
repeat from * – * til end of row placing htr in ch2 of previous row, ch2, htr in same space (increase made).
(x13htr, x12 ch2 spaces).
Side A row 4: ch 4 (counts as htr and 2ch), turn work, miss 2 sts, *htr in next st, ch2, miss 2sts*
repeat * – * til end of row. (x13htr, x12 ch2 spaces).
Side A row 5 – 15: repeat side A row 4. Fasten off. Side A completed.
Side B: Join cream yarn in st to the left of st marker #2
repeat Side A instructions between markers 2 and 3. Fasten off and sew in all loose ends.
Remove stitch markers.
Place on your teapot to check the fit.
Now for the fun part! Weave the ribbons in and out of the mesh.
weave the ribbons in and out of the mesh…
alternate each row ie, start weaving from under the post on one row and over the post on the next row. NB/ on row 3 you will not need to alternate in order to keep the pattern of covered and exposed posts.
This gives me another idea!!!
Repeat weaving ribbons for both Side A and Side B. Once completed you need to secure the ribbons. I used a hot glue gun to do this but you could just as easily machine sew.
Turn work so that the wrong side is facing upwards and begin by securing the ribbons that end by going behind the post. In the picture below this would be the green ribbon, followed by the blue then the red ribbon. Secure both sides being careful not to pull the ends of the ribbon to tight, you need to allow a little give in the ribbon.
Continue to secure the ribbons in this way. You should now only have ribbons that go over the post left to secure. To do this split the side of the post stitch with your nail and thread through the ribbon. In the photo below the top picture shows the blue ribbon already threaded and the bottom picture shows the red ribbon yet to be threaded with the place for it to be threaded through indicated by the safety pin.
NB/ this can be a bit tricky and may require a wee bit of patience!
Once threaded, secure as before.
Edging: join cream yarn to the bottom corner (any side).
Ch2 (does not count as a st), htr into same space (to the right side of ribbon), ch1.
NB/The next st is to be placed in between ribbon).
*ch1,htr in between ribbon*
repeat *- * until last ribbon at the top. Don’t worry too much about the ribbon seeming loose at the sides, just keep placing those htr’s between the ribbons! The last htr being placed to the left side of the last ribbon.
Dc in the sts across the lid of the cosy.
Now place htr to right of top ribbon on opposite side,*ch1, htr in between ribbon*.
Repeat * – * to end. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat the whole of the edging process on the other side of the cosy, but do not fasten off as this is where the tab is created..
Tab: To complete the tab ch2 (does not count as st) turn work,
Tab Row 1: *htr in ch sp, htr in next st* repeat * – * x3 more times (8htr in total)
Tab Row 2: ch2 (does not count as a st) turn work, htr in each st along (8htr)
Tab Row 3: repeat Tab Row 2.
Tab Row 4: Turn work, slst in next 2 sts, ch8, miss 4 sts, slst in next 2sts, fasten off and weave in ends.
Attach button centrally on opposite side to tab.
Now to sew handle opening. To do this sew the two edges on opposite side of cosy to tab and button. Sew from bottom up to the 4th or 5th ribbon or until the bottom of your handle.
Finally to neaten the edges around the spout, join cream yarn to st just above the tab.
Ch2, htr in each st around until st just above button, fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat the process to neaten the edges around the handle, this time joining the cream yarn to any st in the opening for the handle, ch2, htr in each st around, joining with a slst in top of ch2 to finish. Fasten off.
Finally to add the pompom.
Now you could just make a pompom, but I just tied the first part of a bow over and over until I had a fluffy ball.
I threaded some yarn through it and secured it to the top of the tea cosy where it looked rather quite proud.
Et voila! A beautiful tea cosy to warm your brew!
xxxxx
I REALLY HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED MAKING THIS PATTERN AS MUCH AS I HAVE ENJOYED CREATING IT FOR YOU. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ABOUT SOMETHING OR NOTICE ANY ERRORS PLEASE SHOUT UP. EQUALLY PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SHARE YOUR Grandma Florence Tea cosy CREATIONS IN THE COMMENTS BELOW or on social media using the hashtags #ayarnyrobin or @yarnyrobin…I WOULD LOVE TO SEE THEM!
I have had some lovely comments and thought putting the pattern for the flower on a separate post might be useful….even though it is so simple, you could hardly call it a pattern!
Maybe inspiration may be a better phrase.
Any how this is what I did.
To make a dotty little flower, ch4, slst to 1st chain to make a ring.
Ch 2 (counts as a hdc) x9 hdc into ring, slst into top of starting ch and fasten off to finish.
To create a real field of flowers cross stitch some centres, add beads to others and save some for a french knot centre. When using beads, just make sure they have large enough centres for the yarn to pass through!
I used a cheat method to create the french knot centre by pulling a piece of yarn from the back of the flower to the front and then tying a knot x10 in the yarn in exactly the same place to make a large knot.
To finish thread the other tail of the yarn from the front to the back, so both tails are now at the back of the flower, tie to secure and trim tails short.
et voila!
A dotty little flower ready to be sewn or glued or attached to whatever your heart desires.
This is the third tea cosy in theGrandma collection,designed with simplicity and sweetness. The top down design means this pattern makes for a quick hook up. Ideal for beginners and sure to guarantee a perfectly sweet cosy for your teapot.Dedicated to the inspiration that was‘Nanna Dot’
The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 4 cup teapot.
I used less than 50g of Stylecraft special dk yarn in colourways cream and raspberry which I used as my base colours. Please note that I have used a different colour yarn in the photo tutorial below.
I also used scraps of stylecraft special dk yarn in: lipstick, saffron, meadow, fondant, gold, shrimp, lime, khaki and grape.
You will also need a darning needle, a selection of beads with a centre hole wide enough for the dk yarn to be threaded through, a pair of scissors and x4 stitch markers (or small safety pins or scraps of different colour yarn). The use of a hot glue gun is optional, flowers can either be glued into position or stitched.
Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.
Ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
hdc– half double crochet (half single crochet)
You will also need:
a 4mm crochet hook
Ok, here we go…
Using the raspberry yarn Ch 4
Join with a slst to form a ring.
Row 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6hdc into ring,
finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (6hdc).
Row 2: Ch1, (does not count as a st) 2hdc in same space, 2hdc in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (12hdc).
Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next st, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next st* . Repeat * – * to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (18hdc).
Rows 4: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 2 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 2 sts*. Repeat *-* to end,finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (24hdc).
Row 5: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next 3 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (30hdc).
Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space, 1hdc in next 4 sts, *2hdcin next st, 1hdc in next 4 sts*. Repeat *-* to end, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).
Row 7: ch1 ( does not count as a st), 1hdc in same space and in each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (36hdc).
Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a st), 2hdc in same space andin each st around, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).
Row 9 and 10: Repeat row 7, finish with a slst in 1st hdc. (72hdc).
You should have something that is starting to look a bit like a flying saucer! This is a good point to check your measurements with your intended teapot. Place your hooked disc on top of your teapot. You want the edges of the circle to be approx. 1cm from the handle of the teapot.
To mark out handle and spout holes, simply take x4 st markers (or cut short pieces of yarn in a different colour as I did) and place/ tie first marker in the st behind where you joined last row.
Counting backwards (or to the right)miss x3 sts and place/tie second marker in next st. This marks out your handle.
From this second marker count backwards (or to the right) 30sts and place 3rd marker in the next st (31st st). Return to the first marker and count forwards 30 sts (or to the left) and place 4th marker in the next st.
You have now marked out the handle and spout positions for your cosy. Marker 1 and 2 indicate the handle space and markers 3 and 4 indicate the spout space.
The next stage of the cosy is to construct the sides. So, for the purposes of the pattern these will be referred to as side A (between marker 1 and 4) and side B between marker 2 and 3).
Side A row 1: In Cream yarn Ch 1(does not count as a st)* 1hdc in same st and in each st along to marker/tie 4, ch1, turn*
Side A row 2: repeat Side A row 1 returning to marker/tie 1.
Repeat (side A row 1 and side A row 2), to fit the height of your teapot. I completed 15 rows in total. Fasten off.
To complete side B, join cream yarn in stitch to the left of stitch marker number 2
repeat Side A instructions between markers 2 and 3. Fasten off and sew in all loose ends.
Remove stitch markers.
Place on your teapot to check the fit.
Next, using a darning needle sew sides A and B together from the bottom of the cosy to below the spout (approx. 2 rows) and on the handle side from the bottom of the cosy to below the handle.
Now for the creative part… making ‘dotty little crochet flowers’. I made x4 flowers in each of the following colours:
lipstick, fondant, grape, gold, raspberry, saffron and shrimp
A dotty little flower
To make a ‘dotty little flower’ ch4, slst to 1st chain to make a ring. Ch 2 (counts as a hdc) x9 hdc into ring, slst into top of starting ch and fasten off to finish.
To create flower centres you can cross stitch the centre, add beads and create a french knot centre.
I used a cheat method to create the french knot centre by pulling a piece of yarn from the back of the flower to the front and then tying a knot x10 in the yarn in exactly the same place to make a large knot.
To finish thread the other tail of the yarn from the front to the back, so both tails are now at the back of the flower, tie to secure and trim tails short.
Secure your dotty little flowers to both sides of the cosy. You can sew them into place or secure them with hot glue! Then using green yarns sew simple stems and leaves using a back stitch to finish. I used stylecraft special DK yarn in meadow, khaki andlime.
And there you have it…a sweet dotty flower tea cosy to keep your brew warm.
xxxxx
I REALLY HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED MAKING THIS PATTERN AS MUCH AS I HAVE ENJOYED CREATING IT FOR YOU. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ABOUT SOMETHING OR NOTICE ANY ERRORS PLEASE SHOUT UP. EQUALLY PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SHARE YOUR DOTTY FLOWER CREATIONS IN THE COMMENTS BELOW oron social media using the hashtags #ayarnyrobin or @yarnyrobin…I WOULD LOVE TO SEE THEM!
This is the second tea cosy in the Grandma collection, designed with a slight twist on an original theme to keep your teapot well dressed and looking fine. It is fun and frilly and a little OTT… but that’s what I love…
Dedicated to the inspiration that was ‘Mabel‘
The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 4 cup teapot.
I used just under 50g of Stylecraft special dk yarn in colourway duck egg, lipstick, saffron, meadow, candyfloss and cloud.
You will also need approximately 40 buttons in similar colours and of all different sizes which were languishing in my button jar.
Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.
Ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet ( single crochet)
dc tog – double crochet together (single crochet together)
You will also need:
a 4mm hook
a darning needle
scraps of yarn to use as temporary tie markers
a stitch marker
approximately 120cms of lace about 3cms wide
Top Tip: safety pins make excellent stitch markers!
Ok, here we go…
Using meadow Ch 80 and join with a slst to form a circle (before completing the slst make sure chain is not twisted).
It is a good idea to check at this point that the circle of chains fits around your teapot. (see end of pattern for instructions about adjusting pattern).
Row 1: Ch1 (mark with a stitch marker, does not count as a dc), dc in each ch around,
finish with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker taking care that work is not twisted when completing the slst. (80dc).
Row 2: Ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as a dc)
Dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker. (80 dc).
Rows 3: repeat row 2, before joining with a slst in ch marked with st marker (ie/ when you have the last 2 loops on your hook of the last st of the round – see photo)
join the lipstick (red) yarn and finish with a slst as shown below
Rows 4 – 6: repeat row 2
We are now going to place a tie marker (a temporary mark) to indicate the space for the handle hole. Before you start the next row, take a small scrap of yarn in a contrasting colour and thread through st marked with the stitch marker. Tie a bow.
Row 7: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as dc), slst in the same st as the tie marker and in next 4 sts, mark this last slst with a second tie marker. This indicates the space for hole for the handle.
1dc in next 75sts around to stitch marker. On 75th dc (last st)change to candyfloss (pink yarn) ie/ when last 2 loops on hook of the last dc as before. Finish st with pink yarn, slstinto ch marked with st marker (75dc, 5 slst).
Row 8: Ch 1 (counts as a dc), turn work, 1dc in next 74sts (this row should finish in the st above the st marked with the tie marker in the previous round.
Row 9: ch1 (counts as a dc) turn work, dc in next 74sts (75sts in total). Change to sky blue yarn in last dc.
Row 10: ch1 (counts as a dc) turn work, dc in next 74 sts (75sts in total).
Row 11: Repeat row 9, changing to saffron (yellow yarn) in last dc. Row 12: (saffron) Repeat row 9.
Row 13: Repeat row 9, changing to duck egg yarn in last dc.
Row 14: ch1 (counts as dc), turn work, dc in next 19sts, slst in next 35sts, dcin next 20sts (40dc, 35slst, 75sts in total).
Row 15: Repeat row 14.
Row 16: ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dc in next 19sts, dctogin next st (sts 21 and 22), slst in next 31sts, dctog in next st, dcin next 20sts (42dc, 31slst = 73sts in total).
Row 17: ch1 (counts as a dc) turn work, dc in next 20sts, slst in next 31sts, dc in next 21sts (73sts in total).
Row 18: ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dc in next 19sts, dctog in next st (sts 21 and 22), slst in next 29sts, dctog in next st, dc in next 20sts (42dc, 29slst = 71sts in total).
Row 19: ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dc in next 20sts, slst in next 29sts, dc in next 21sts (71sts in total). It should be starting to look a little something like this…
Row 20: Ch1 (counts as a dc) turn work, dc in next 19sts dctog in next st (sts 21 & 22), slst in next 27sts, dctog in next st, dc in next 20sts (42dc, 27slst = 69sts).
Row 21: Ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dcin next 20sts, slst in next 27sts, dc in next 21sts (42dc, 27 slst = 69sts).
Row 22: Ch1 (counts as a dc), turn work, dc in next 19sts, dctog in next st (sts 21 & 22), dctog in next st (sts 23 & 24), dc in next 21sts, dctog in next st, dctog in next st, dc in next 20sts (65sts).
Your cosy should be starting to take shape now!
Row 23: Ch1 (counts as a dc), turn, dc in next 19 sts,dctog in next st (sts 21 & 22), dc tog in next st (sts 23 & 24),dc in next 17sts, dctog in next st, dctog in next st, dc in next 20sts (61sts).
We return to working in the round in the next row.
Row 24: Ch1 (counts as a dc) – mark with a st marker, turn, dc in next 2sts, dctog in next st, *dc in next 3sts,dctog in next st*, repeat * -* around, finishing with 1dc in last st, ch3 and slst into st marked with stitch marker.
Row 25: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker (52dc).
Row 26: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next st, dctog in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, dctog in next st* repeat *-* around, finishing with dctog, slst in ch marked with stitch marker (39dc).
Row 27: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker (39dc).
Row 28: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dctoginnext st, *dc in next st, dctog in next st* repeat *-* around, finishing with a dctog, slst in ch marked with a stitch marker (26dc).
Row 29: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker (26dc).
Row 30: Ch1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, DOES NOT COUNT AS A DC), *dctog in next st*, repeat *-* around, finishing with a dctog, slst in ch marked with a stitch marker (12dc).
Row 31: Repeat row 30 (6dc)
Leaving a small hole, fasten off and weave in ends. The little hole allows for the knob of the teapot lid to poke through and helps to keep the cosy positioned on teapot.
Now hand sew on buttons of all different sizes.
Next hand sew on the lace with a simple running stitch.
I used meadow yarn for the lace at the bottom of the cosy and duck egg yarn for the lace around the buttons.
Just one last thing left to do now. Boil the kettle and make a brew…enjoy and admire.
My hands have been yearning to hook in the evenings lately; but the projects I have on the go at the moment (which have to remain secret at least until after Christmas) are rather more intricate than I dare attempt at such an hour where I am prone to the odd gin and tonic or two as well as a little snooze.
So whilst creating numerous chains the other evening…see here . I found myself hooking up a yarny little heart with not a care of the process noted down at all.
Fast forward a couple of evenings later when the nest was still and quiet, I found myself unable to sleep, thinking of creative yarny possibilities and my yarny little heart began to trouble me.
So, I found myself unpicking my heart and writing down the pattern and my world was well again.
So here is my pattern for a ‘yarny little heart’.
This little heart is a great stash busting hook up as it only requires scraps.
You will need:
scraps of double knit (dk) yarn,
4mmhook,
darning needle to weave in the ends.
Abbreviations used UK terminology (American terminology in brackets)
Ch – chain,
slst – slip stitch,
dc – double crochet (single crochet)
htr – half treble (half double crochet)
tr – treble (double crochet)
dtr – double treble crochet ( treble )
Begin by chaining 2 (ch2),
slst into first ch to form a tiny ring.
Ch 1 (counts as a dc), place hook inside of ring
and make x9 more dc in ring (10dc in total counting beginning ch).
Turn circle over and give the tail end a firm tug…this should pull the centre of the circle into a more closed position.
Turn back over.
Row 2:
Ch 2 (counts as a dc,ch1),
*dc, ch1 in next st*
repeat from * – * in each stitch around.
Slst in 1st ch
(10dc and 10 ch spaces)
Row 3:
Ch4 (counts as a dtr), 1dtr in the next 3 sts,
1tr in next 4sts,
1htr in next st, dc in next st,
ch3,
Slst into same space (this creates a picot),
dc in next st, 1htr in next st,
1tr in next 4 sts,
1dtr in next 4 sts, slst in to ch1 of beginning ch4.
Row 4: ch4 (counts as a dtr),
work x3dtr in side sts of ch4 of previous row
1tr in next 3 sts, 1htr into the next st, 1dc in next 4sts,
Slst in picot space
ch3, slst in to same space (picot made)
1dc in next 4 sts,1htr in next st, 1tr in next 3 sts
1dtr in next 4sts,
slst in to the cleavage of the heart (i’m sure there is a proper name for that…just not sure what it is!!) But if you don’t understand I mean just here
This is a very pretty tea cosy, perfect for keeping your teapot dressed in style and your tea hot. It is the first of a series of tea cosies which make up the Grandma collection.
Grandma Mary Tea Cosy
Dedicated to the inspiration that was ‘Mary’ the pattern has flowers made on a small flower loom, which are inexpensive to buy and relatively easy to use. I purchased mine for about £3.
The pattern makes a tea cosy that fits a standard 4 cup teapot
I used just under 50g of Rico baby classic dk yarn in colourway (026)
and scraps of yarn.
I used scraps of stylecraft special dk in the following colourway (nb/the mint is Stylecraft life dk)
Stitches used in this pattern refer to English terminology, however a conversion to US terminology is provided in brackets.
Ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet ( single crochet)
dc tog – double crochet together (single crochet together)
You will also need:
a small flower loom
a 4mm hook
a darning needle
scraps of yarn to use as temporary tie markers
scraps of yarn to make flowers
a string of beads 50cms long
50cms of lace 0.5cms broad
a stitch marker
Top Tip: safety pins make excellent stitch markers!
Ok, here we go…
Ch 80 and join with a slst to form a circle (before completing the slst make sure chain is not twisted).
It is a good idea to check at this point that the circle of chains fits around your teapot. (see end of pattern for instructions about adjusting pattern).
Row 1: Ch1 (mark with a stitch marker, does not count as a dc), dc in each ch around
finish with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker taking care that work is not twisted when completing the slst. (80dc).
Row 2: Ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as a dc)
Dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with a stitch marker. (80 dc).
Rows 3 – 5: repeat row 2
Row 6: Ch 1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 14sts, mark next st with a tie marker (different colour yarn which will be removed later – I just tied a bow in red yarn!) see picture below.
slst in same st as tie marker and in next 6 sts and mark last slst with a second tie marker as shown in the picture above. This is where the spout hole starts!
1dc in next 33sts, mark next st with a third tie marker, slst in same st as tie marker and in next 4 sts, mark the last slst with a fourth tie marker. This is where the hole for the handle starts!
1dc in next 21 sts, slst in ch marked with a stitch marker. (35dc, 7slst, 33dc, 5slst). Fasten off.
This next part of the pattern is worked in rows as side (a) and side (b) and forms the sides of the cosy.
So let’s do side (a) first…
Row 7a: Join yarn in st next to the 4th tie marker and to the right hand side of the stitch marker
ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 35 sts to next tie marker, turn.
Row 8a: ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 35sts to tie marker, turn.
Rows 9a – 25a: repeat row 8a, fasten off.
OK, now let’s do side (b). Turn over work and join yarn in st next to second tie marker on the right as shown.
Row 7b: ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 33 sts to next tie marker, turn.
Row 8b: ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 33 sts to next tie marker, turn. Rows 9b – 24b: repeat row 8b.
Row 25b: ch1 (does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 33sts to next tie marker, ch5,
slst into 1st st on row 25a as shown.
Again, this is a good point to check the cosies fit on your tea pot. We return to working in the round again now.
So Row 26: Ch1 (mark with a stitch marker…NB/ this ch does count as a dc), dc in next 34sts, ch7,
dc in next 33sts,
dc in next ch5, slst into ch marked by stitch marker. (80dc).
Row 27: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place stitch marker in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next 34sts, dc in next 7chs
dc in next 38sts, slst in ch marked with the stitch marker. (80dc)
It is now time to start decreasing the number of stitches to form the top of the cosy. To do this a dc tog stitch is introduced. Top Tip: each row that uses dc tog stitches finishes on a dc tog before slst in to ch marked with st marker! Here we go…
Row 29: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next 5sts, dc tog in next st, *dc in next 6sts, dc tog in next st*
repeat * -* around,
finish with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (72dc).
Row 30: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (72dc).
Row 31: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next 3 sts, dc tog in next st,
* dc in next 4 sts, dc tog in next st *, repeat *-* around,
finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (60dc).
Row 32: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around,
finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (60dc).
Row 33: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in next 2sts, dc tog in next st, * dc in next 3sts, dc tog in next st *, repeat *-* around,
finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (48dc).
Row 34: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc),
dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (48dc).
Row 35: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc in next st, dc tog in next st,
* dc in next 2 sts, dc tog in next st *, repeat *-* around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (36dc).
Row 36: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc in each stitch around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (36dc).
Row 37: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc tog in next st,
* dc in next st, dc tog in next st *
repeat *-* around, finishing with slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (24dc).
Row 38: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc in each st around, finish by slst into ch marked with stitch marker. (24dc).
Row 39:ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as dc), dc tog in next st,
* dc tog in next st * repeat *-* around, finish with a slst in ch marked by stitch marker. (12dc).
Row 40:repeat row 39 (6dc).
Row 41: repeat row 39 (3dc). Fasten off.
You should have something that resembles the above …now its time to make the flowers!!!
If you don’t know how to make loom flowers they are simple to make. I highly recommend you watch a tutorial…I found this one excellent…
all flowers to have the same colour centre…I used mint. Leave long tails on each flower to make attaching them easier.
Keep back x1 raspberry, x1 white, x1 pale rose and x1 plum flower.
Begin to attach the rest of the flowers to the top of the tea cosy using the long tails and darning needle.
Continue around
Evenly attaching the flowers…
Once attached turn tea cosy inside out and tie of all loose ends
Snipping to make tidy.
Next, take the lace. Turning the tea cosy inside out tack the lace around the edge of the opening for the spout and the handle.
Turn, the cosy back to the right side; you should now have a cosy that is beginning to look very pretty indeed…
Taking the string of beads, thread a darning needle with some raspberry coloured yarn and tie a large knot.
Starting at the bottom side of the handle hole pull the needle through from the inside of the cosy to the outside so that the knot cannot be seen.
Begin to tack between each bead, fixing them in a line around the cosy towards the spout hole.Once at the spout hole, snip the beads, turn cosy over and repeat on side b.
Finally, attach raspberry coloured flower at the bottom of the handle hole in the space between the beads.
Attach remaining white, pale rose and plum flower in space between the beads at the bottom of the spout hole. Weave in any remaining loose ends.
Just one last thing left to do now. Boil the kettle and make a brew…enjoy and admire.
NB/ TIPS FOR ALTERING THE SIZE OF THE cosy…regularly check the size of the cosy on your teapot. The body of the cosy has the same amount of stitches as row 1, if yours is more or less than 80sts then keep the number of sts you have up to row 28 in order to create the handle and spout holes, place around your teapot and mark with tie markers as described then count your sts between each marker and substitute your numbers into the pattern.
Previously Boys and Chickens, I have created a new blog to share my sewing adventure as 2018 is they year I plan to teach myself to sew! There will also be bits of crochet and cooking too.
xxxxx 
join blue yarn and slst into 3rd ch
Row 2: ch3,
1tr in same space, ch1
2tr in next st, ch1
*2tr in next st, ch1*, repeat * * x10 times,
Row 3: ch3,
*3tr in next ch space*,
repeat * * x10 times, 2 tr in next ch space,
join with slst in top of ch3 and fasten off.
This is the fifth tea cosy in the 
Row 6: Ch 1 (remove st marker from previous row and place in this ch, does not count as a dc), 1dc in next 14sts, mark next st with a tie marker (different colour yarn which will be removed later – I just tied a bow in red yarn!) see picture below.
dc in next 33sts, 
dc in next ch5, slst into ch marked by stitch marker. (80dc).
Row 30: ch1 (remove stitch marker from previous row and place in this ch, counts as a dc), dc in each st around, finishing with a slst in ch marked with stitch marker. (72dc). 
